66515992401 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Both springs (8066018 and 3368999) were replaced as recommended in your troubleshooting guide, but did not resolve the problem. Finally the Dual Motor, 3374501, was replaced. During the above, the plastic face of the door fell off, which created a nuisance task before proceeding to fix the original problem. However, while replacing the motor, I realized the purpose of the two, T-shaped studs sticking out of the motor. It is absolutely necessary that these sit inside the slots which engages the sliding plastic cover, which is spring loaded, in order to engage the release of the soap dispenser door. It was truly a learning experience, but I got it done.

I replaced the seals per the video instructions.

So my dishwasher is 20 some years old. Woke up in the morning to smell burning plastic and the dishwasher never moving to the next part in the cycle. I thought it was the high limit, then the cycling thermostat(because cycling you'd think it was cycling wrong). Nope. It was working fine. I used a multimeter to test the high limit(ohm reading will be closed at room temp) and for the cycling(will be open at room temp, so use a multimeter with alligator clips and a lighter to trigger it to close). All of my existing parts were fine. So I went to the timer and tested with alligator clips, each part that connected during the timing cycle. Sure enough. On the rinse and pump water out part, the contact point wasnt connecting due to corrosion and a bent prong. So I rebent it and cleaned all the contact points. All you need to do on these old washers is pull out the timer and pull off the thin plastic "sheild" over the thing. Guess what. I have a working dishwasher after having done the impossible and fixed my timer. So for those who have a dish washer that won't advance, but you can hear your timer advancing with the clicks, this is your problem. Saved myself an unknown amount of money because they don't make my timer anymore.

Tipped over washer, removed attachment bolts, installed new pump by clamping water hoses. Be sure to use proper crimping pliers, not the generic slip joint pliers. Replacement pump included required new clamps.

I had done a door on another brand a while back and thought it would be the same, WRONG. All I needed to do was 6 screws in the lower panels. It should have not taken me longer than 30 minutes.
2 screws in the floor panel, 2 screws in the lower L shaped panel, 2 screws in the bottom of the front panel to be replaced.
EASY

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

As described with instructions, removed original "bearing," installed replacement, removed original spring, installed replacement springs. Not difficult.

I searched for the 18x5x5 insulation.,ordered it from Part Select. Waited. Company sent wrong part. Called, they gave me a refund, reordered, promised 2 day free shipping. Waited more than a week, paid for 2 day shipping. Received same, wrong part. Still don't have repair done. Looking elsewhere for part.

the plastic pin that retains the spring has a head on one end that hits a plastic stop on the door to keep it from coming out. I used a small grinder and made a flat spot on the head diameter to make it easy to slide out. This is easier than trying to pry the door off the pin at the two retaing snaps. I was conderned these pin retainer clips were brittle and would break off.
Once the pin is slid out, it is a matter to hold the new spring holes in line with the pin. rotate pin so flat side you ground is turned up, so pin will not move out that way. Tiij about an hour

Swapped out the old upper dish rack with a new one. A video made the change simple.

watched a video

Placed paddle switch in housing cover and snapped it in place onto housing

Removed plastic wing-nut. install new bushing.

Pulled out the old with needle nose pliers. Pushed in new door seal with fingers.

Just snap it in