66513889K801 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.

Popped out old wheel housing. Popped in replacement with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Easy.

First I unplugged the dishwasher.Then I removed 6 Torx screws, popped off cover, cut wires to old fuse, stripped wire, placed wires in new part, tightened screws, reassembled in reverse order, plugged unit back in and tested. WOO HOO!

I saved over $150.00 by doing it myself instead of having a repairman come out! That's 4 free fishing trips!

I released the heater element from the clips on the bottom of the waaher tub. I pulled the unit out from the wall and disconnected power. There are two slip on wire terminals on each end of the heater element accessible from the back that need to be removed. One of them was badly rusted from leaking water, which had caused the short, and had to be replaced. These terminals and the crimping tool to install them are available at any home center. I removed and discarded the old plastic nuts since one of them was damaged by arching from the short circuit. Moving around to the front of the dishwasher, I removed the old heater and installed the new one. I had ordered new rubber washers, but the new heater came with them already installed. Since one of the old ones failed and caused the leak, they are a good thing to keep around as spares anyway. I installed the new nuts and tightened them to enough to ensure that the washers made a good seal. I reconnected the wire terminals to the heater, reconnected power and moved the unit back into place. The circuit opening when the heater failed caused a "call for service" error and the controller would not allow the unit to run. You will know you have this by the "CLEAN" LED flashing seven times. Clear the diagnostics by pressing the buttons for "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" and after the controller resets, the dishwaher is ready to run. It's worked like new ever since.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

Turned off power, turned off water supply and diconnected, slid out dishwasher. Removed the spray wand and tilted dishwasher to access the two nuts and disconnet the wires. Removed the two nuts using a socket. Removed the old heating element and replaced with the new one secured with new nuts ( the old ones were fine but since I bought two new ones why not). Pluged the wires back up slid the dishwasher back in hooked up the water reinstalled the spray wand cut on the water and power. Good as new.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!

Removed the Bi-Metal fuse and ordered a new one and recerved it two days after ordering. Replaced it and it worked.

It was easy! First I ordered the expensive replacement parts on line. The parts arrived in one week. I was able to slide the old drawers out, slip a few parts off of the old drawers, snap them on and slide the new drawers in place!

removed screws holding dishwasher to counter top,raised leveling pads,pulled dishwasher out, unplugged wiring,removed hold down nuts from inside dishwasher and installed new heater element, this was all easy the hard part was finding the code to reset the dishwasher there was no paperwork inside the dishwasher although there was an empty plastic holder.The code that worked for my model was with the door open to push the normal wash button then the high temp button three times as fast as you can within four seconds then close the door. It worked and reset the dishwasher which ran a short cycle then shut down as normal and is now working fine.After doing this select the beverage of your choice and relax. Hope this helps someone.

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.