66574369400 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.

removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access check valve ,white with hose attached.

Got the new door and tried to put it on. The door went on very easily. However, there's a spring that opens the door when the main wash cycle comes around. I never did get that spring right. None of the drawings showed the correct position and after an hour of trying to get it to work right, I gave up. The door comes open slightly (but not because of the spring) when it's time, and the liquid soap runs out due to gravity. But I wouldn't try to use soap powder because the door doesn't come open far enough.

First I removed the plastic bolt that holds the wash arm in place This exposed the upper ring that was worn out . I then lifted the arm off which exposed the larger ring. I replaced that ring, and then I put the arm back on and replaced the upper ring. I put the plastic bolt back in place and the repair was complete.-- Really Easy plus the dishwasher gets the dishes clean now

Removed the lower spray arm assembly thumb screw and lifted off the spray arm assembly. The lower seal had disintigrated - couldn't even find any pieces in the filter. After reassembly with the new seal and bearing I turned the spray arm by hand to ensure it was not binding. There was still was, what I would consider, some excessive wobble. I fashioned a shim washer out of some plastic from a Folgers coffee can lid and installed it on the thumbscrew threaded shaft and tightened it all down finger tight - it works very well and now, and no wobble.
I relaced the upper spray arm seal while I was doing the job (both the upper and lower seals are the same part #). I figured it would go out on me eventually, so I might as well replace it while I was doing the lower arm work. Kept the old upper arm seal as an emergency replacement.

Cleaned the filter screen of all debris (it is amazing what collects there over time). Cleaned the stainless tub with some spray Greased Lightning, ran the rinse cycle, and then put a few tablespoons of citric acid crystals in the soap dispenser and ran the dishwasher on NORMAL WASH with temperature boost.
Looks new inside; cleans the dishes, glasses and utensils well (no water spotting); and is nice and quite (like when it was new).

No Water supply to Dishwasher. Turned off main Supply valve under sink.First took off old Diswasher supply valve and repaired it by cleaning it and it worked for two weeks. I ordered the part, but then cancelled it and Partselect service was great and cancelled it immediately. After it went down after 2 weeks I re-ordered it and it came in 4 days.
To Take this part off I removed mounting scews with nut driver, disconeected electronic plug connector, removed the compression fitting from the water supply and removed the outlet hose..reversed all of the above to install.

First, I checked the ripped box for damage to the dishrack. Fortunately, there was none. Then I looked for the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, there was none. And the parts bag was ripped and I did not know what was supposed to be in it. So, I rechecked the photo of the dishrack on the website and found that either parts were missing or the dishrack was different than illistrated. After a few moments of thought, I realized the latter was the case. I then figured I would have to use some deep thought to do the installation since neither the missing instruction booklet nor the unzoomable photo would help. So, I pulled out the tall thin thingamabob from the old dishrack and put it in the new one though it did not secure as tightly. Then I put the wheel units on just like the old one. What I could not immediately figure out was where the collapsible rack row was mounted. I eventually realized that the rod went into a hole in the wheel units and the latch mounted above one unit. I still have no idea where the two other tan clips go. Though the dishrack is different and thus requires different science to fill it, it appears to do the job.

Thanks for asking.

By the way, it was not blue.

The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.

My dishwasher started leaking at the door. I checked the level, door seal, fill float, etc. Nothing worked. Another reviewer of these parts said to replace the Seal, Lower Sprayarm, the Wash Arm Bearing Ring, and the wash arm. I replaced the seal and the bearing, not the washer arm, as my spray had little to no wear. This fixed the problem! If you dishwasher leaks at the door, it is possible these parts are worn and replacing them wil fix the leak. Thanks to the other reviewer I now have no leaks! Buy a spare nut because they break very easy if overtorqued!

I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.

repair was very easy did need to go to the hardware store for and adapter for the hose to water inlet valve as mine had a smaller diameter connector. Otherwise followed both videos. Needed a shopvac to remove water in the bottom of the dishwasher

Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!

I ORDERED THE PART THAT WAS EASY BUT WHILE THE MACHINE WAS USED FOR HOW LONG I DON'T KNOW WITH OUT THE CAP IT GOT FILLED WITH FOOD AND JUNK. FIRST THING I HAD TO DO WAS EXAMIN THE DOOR AS TO HOW I COULD CLEAN THIS THING OUT. I REMOVED 6 SCREWS THAT HELD THE DOOR TOGETHER AND PULLED EASY CAUSE I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT I WAS GETTING INTO. NO PROBLEM THERE WAS NO ELECTRIC PLUGS HOOKED TO THE DOOR. I TOOK IT OUT SIDE AND STARTED USING VINIGAR AND POURING IT INTO THE HOLE AND SHAKING THEN TRYING TO GET IT BACK OUT. WELL THERE IS ONLY ONE POSITION THAT WILL LET THE VINEGAR BACK OUT. I HAD TO HOLD IT SIDEWAYS THEN TILT FORWARD AND IT WOULD RUN OUT AND BRING SOME JUNK WITH IT. THIS WAS A TIME CONSUMING PROCESS BEING YOU COULD NOT SEE INSIDE TO KNOW HOW MUCH JUNK WAS IN THERE. JUST POUR AND DUMP. AND DON'T FOR GET TO SHAKE TO LOOSEN ANY THING LEFT INSIDE.LOL I WAS VERY PROUD OF MYSELF NOT KNOWING FOR SURE IF I FIXED IT OR NOT BUT I TOOK A SHOT I HAD. I DID SOME SCRUBBING AND DEGREASING ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR BEFORE I REASSEMBLED IT. THAT WAS EASY AND I CROSSED MY FINGERS ANY WAY. I GOT OUT MY NEW PART AND THE JET DRY I BOUGHT AND STATED TO FILL THE DISPENSER AND IT TOOK HALF THE BOTTLE.YEA !!! I PUT THE CAP ON AND COULDN'T WAIT TO DO A LOAD OF DISHES. EVERY THING IS LOOKING GOOD NOW. THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR MAKING GETTING THE PARTS I NEEDED SO EASY AND SHOWING DIAGRAMS SO I HAD THE RIGHT PART. I COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITH OUT YOU.

The old spring on the detergent dispenser box door failed and the dispenser door would not pop open at the right time in the wash cycle.

Ordering the new spring was easy on the website. Need dishwasher model number, stock number and serial number.

Hint - Order at least 2 springs! They are not expensive.

I followed the instructions in the video. I could get the spring on the spindle correctly but could not get the two spring prongs to catch to create spring tension on the door without using a thin knife blade to carefully push each prong to where it caught on the dispenser door.

I needed to slide the prongs slowly and carefully to get them to catch on the door. This distorted the spring. That's why you really need two springs. I then used needle nose pliers to pull the latching part of the spring to catch on the inner door. That distorts the spring, too.

So you really need two springs. One spring to learn how to do it and a second one to replace the one you distorted as you learned.

Take care

It was a piece of cake, just slapped together and slid it into place!