66513112K700 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

I initially thought the pump assembly was dying (or was damaged by a piece of glass or something that had gotten into the pump. I priced the parts and decided I wasn't sure the unit was worth it. But the dishwasher was also not cleaning well, and was leave soap on the dishes. Turned out the water inlet valve was intermittently failing to open. Using the troubleshooting guide (both downloadable and inside the bottom panel) was no help. I just checked and saw that there was power going to the valve when it did not open: diagnosis made. Step 1: turn off water to dishwasher. Step two: remove bottom panel. Step 3, place towels under dishwasher. Step 4, disconnect water line from elbow screwed into inlet valve. Step 5: remove inlet valve screw with nut driver and slide valve sideways and back to remove. Step 6: slide clamp on hose to dishwasher away from valve using pliers. Some work involve with sliding hose off the valve (careful, the hose is accordioned plastic) Step 7: remove elbow from inlet valve (this required a visegrip to hold the narrow nut surface on the valve and a wrench to turn the elbow). Step 8: apply Teflon tape to elbow and screw into new inlet valve. Step 9: install hose to dishwasher and return clamp to hold hose in place. Step 10: reinstall valve by placing tongues into grooves and sliding to the left, reinstall screw. Step 11: tighten elbow with wrench, now that valve is held in place. Step 12: reinstall water line. Step 13: turn on supply line and check for leaks

After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.

Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.

1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)

Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.

Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.

First let me tell you I am not a "handyman". I am a 50 year old housewife who was determined not to shell out $$$ if I could help it. I researched on the internet what could be the problem...it was more than likely the chopper assembly. I found a youtube video that showed how to get to the chopper assembly. So I removed the racks by dislodging the end clips. Next I took the bottom tub sprayer off by holding the middle with my fingers and turning the blade counter clockwise. Next, I unscrewed the line that ran in the back and up to the top sprayer (I only removed the one screw so I could slide it to the right slightly so I could remove it from the connector at the bottom and it revealed four screws that needed to come out of the mesh cover. After removing that there is one more screw that comes out of the shroud that covers the chopper assembly. I cleaned the area removed the chopper assembly (totally gunked up) and replaced it with the new one I purchased here...(lightening fast shipping btw!!...Yea! for PartsSelect.com....you guys rock!) I checked for gunk in the rubber valve assembly, super easy to remove/replace. Vacuumed standing water with my shop vac to get any errant noodles and food bits and reassembled all of the housing and lines in reverse order. Before I ran my dishwasher I put some clean water in the bottom...just poured about 32 oz in. Whether you need to or not....I don't know but figured it wouldn't hurt. IT WORKED LIKE A CHAMP! Super clean dishes again!! I felt so empowered and the whole thing cost me less than 20 bucks! Listen ladies....and men....this is super easy....If I can do it....any one can!

This was an easy repair. The leak was around the solenoid of the inlet valve and thus the assembly needed replacement. Turn off the water. Take the screws that secure it to the cabinet out. Pull the dishwasher out where you can tip it on its side. (you might get someone to help you hold it tipped. Disconnect the water line (copper) and the inlet hose (just clipped on)and the electric connection.
Take one screw out that holds the valve assembly in place and remove the valve assembly.
Put the new assembly in as the reverse procedure. Make sure to use plumbing tape on the threads to the copper water connection so that you wont have a drip leak when its tightened.

My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.

Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back
on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine powered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24

After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.