66513114K701 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...

We took off the old one by disconnecting everything and put in the new one an re-connected everything. Aligning the pump was a little difficult.

The repair was similar to the very good video provided by PartSelect. However, I did make a few changes. The new rack was slightly different in the front side compared to the old rusted rack. After I removed the old rack from the dishwasher, I placed the two racks side-by -side to make sure they were compatible. They were identical in the rear structure and overall size, so I proceeded to change out the wheel racks, rack height adjusters and upper wash arm to the new rack. I suggest transferring each part one at a time so you can get the spacing correct. Also, in my case, many of the items needed to be washed with water to remove soap buildup in these parts before moving to the new rack. I would also suggest putting the upper wash arm (needed in this case) on the new rack last. The total job took me about an hour including washing or rinsing all parts and reassembly. This is an easy job, just take your time and do one item at a time so nothing gets mixed up. I used a drill driver to remove a total of 4 Phillip head screws for the rack height adjusters but a regular Phillip head screw driver would work as well.

12 screws remove door outside panel unplug wire remove 6 mounting screw remove old unit put new unit in place put 6 small mounting screws back plug wire in put front door panel in place put 12 door screws in your done now you can start and test run

Removed front instrument cover. Removed latch assembly. Tried to fix it . No luck. Ordered new latch assembly. Came in from partsselect in 3 days. Installed new latch. Replaced cover.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

Follow the u tube instruction. Replacing the pump was very simple and easy. The hard part was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet and back in again.

Soak up the water in the dishwasher with an old towel. Removed the cover under the dishwasher. Found the pump and twisted it off anti clockwise. Replaced with the new pump. Run a quick cycle, to make sure it pumped out all the water. My wife has used it several times since without any issues.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

First I would like to say I was concerned about undertaking a dishwasher repair ,as I now am legally blind and I was concerned that my vision impairment might cause me a problem. My dishwasher pump motor was not running and from the humming sound I could tell it was cycling power off on the thermo switch overload. The pump can be removed by turning it counter clockwise,however it would not move and I could not rotate the motor manually, IT appeared that the impeller must be jammed,so I removed the complete ascribe..After I removed it the motor still could not be removed for replacement. I ordered the complete assembly from PartSelect.com an was supervised how fast it was delivered. The hardest part was getting the seal to go in place as it was new and a tight fit. The Partsselect.com video's ,on repair instructions were very helpful. I reinstalled the dishwasher and everything worked fine.Thanks for thefast delivery of my order.

I had to remove the baskets, spray assemblies (no tools needed) and disassemble the section of the pump that contained the chopper assembly. (removing three Torx screws)
I had to remove a part of the old chopper that had gone into the pump, but I was lucky that a magnet grabbed it so I didn't have to disassemble the pump.
The total repair was not difficult. The only problem was access (hands in the way while repairing difficult to see) and compressing the spring on the new chopper while trying to slip it into the groove.
The parts came in three days and they fit perfectly

Removed the old one, cleaned out the groove, dry fit the gasket, made a small cut to fit length, removed, squeezed the glue into the track and then put gasket in. Had to wait 24 hours for glue to cure.
No leaks.

After looking at what everyone else had done, I decide that I would take the dishwasher out of the wall space and set it on its side. This require me to turn off the power first. Then I pull the diswasher out from its space in the wall. I turned off the the water and then took off the water hose, then took of the return hose. There was water left in both, so there was a little water on the floor as a result of this. Then I finally pulled out the unit and laid it down on its side. The motor was very visible and was easy to access. The hardest part was finding the bolt to take it off. I pulled off the power connector to the motor and then took off the one bolt that was holding the motor on the washer. Then I twisted the motor, but it would not come off. I finally got a screw driver and put it in the small opening between the motor and the connection and it finally came off. This took all of about 30 minutes. Once I got the motor off, I notice that the aluminum grating inside was dirty and needed cleaning. So I cleaned this and put it back inside. The new motor came with every thing, so I put it in and twisted it. Then put back in the bolt, reconnected the power cable, put back on the water and reconnected the output cable. In order to make sure there were no leaks before I put it back in for good, I ran a short wash to check to see if everything was tight. There were no leaks, so I put everything back in the wall. It really did sound very nice now. This dishwasher unit came with noise padding, so I put that back as well. The dishwasher, now is very quite and I don't mind it running any time during the day. The hardest part about this is getting the motor off and find the bolt. It is down between motor and the unit and there was some aluminum between this and the dishwasher, so you need a long nutdriver to get it off.