66513889K800 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Other than the repair part being at the bottom of the dishwasher and you had to lie on your stomach to do the swap out, it was just one screw, move the part out a little closer to you then pull off one electrical wire, and pull off one small hose and using wrench unhook the other small hose.

Of course I had to take it apart a second time because of a leak, but using 3 or 4 circles of the white plumbers tape, it took care of the leak.

Removed new from box and installed rollers as instructed that's all there was , very easy.

I removed the old gasket simply by pulling on it. I compared its length to the length of the new gasket, figuring there would be some trimming to do -- there wasn't. The replacement was exactly the same.
I placed a mark on the center of the new gasket, and marked the center of the mounting groove. I aligned the two marks, and pushed the new gasket into the groove, starting at the center, and worked my way out towards the two ends. After getting a majority of the new gasket to seat by hand, I GENTLY used the tip of a slotted screwdriver to ensure that the New Gasket was completely snapped into place.
The fit was perfect, and no more leaks. This repair was so simple, I'm embarressed for putting it off for so long. ;)

I followed the video directions on line...they were exactly to the point to do the repair.

Disconnected Power, Turned off water valve, disconnected drain return line, disconnected water line, removed two screws on inside-top that was mounted to counter, pulled out dishwasher while feeding power cord, drain line, water line. Turned Dishwasher on it's side and disconnected water line and water fill line from Fill valve Assembly. Disconnected power connector from Valve. Removed one screw from Fill valve assembly and removed Fill valve assembly.
Installed Fill valve assembly and screwed screw back in. Installed Water line and water fill line from valve. Snapped power connector back in. Doubled checked Fill Valve connections to make sure they were tight. Slide Dishwasher back in while lines and power back through to under sink. Made sure Dishwasher was set in place and mounted two screws to counter. Connected water line to water valve and connected discharge line back to it's location. Turn water back on. Plug power back in.
Turned unit on and checked for leaks at the fill Valve assembly, water line and discharge tube.
Saved ~ $ 100.00. Easy job. I wished I didn't wait so long when it was making the noise for so long...Good luck..

Grabbed old seal and removed it.(notice how seal was situated in slot)

Pushed new seal in slot that held old seal. close door.

If dishwasher still leaks you put the seal in backward (I did!)remove seal reverse it and reinsert it.

I took out the old one and started in the lower left corner and threaded it all around the edge to make sure the placement and length was correct. Then I came back around with a plastic spatula to firmly seat the gasket into the groove. Worked perfectly and havent had any trouble since!

Removed old rack and and removed old rollers and installed old rollers on new rack as they work better than the new rollers sent with new rack

i asked the vrtual repair stating the problem of my dishwasher machine ,he then give me two possible solution change the water presure switch which i did order the part and installed it and it works now..............thanks partselect.

I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process

I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.

The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

I watched the video identifying the part and the procedure to make sure I could handle this. The phone attendant was also very helpful in making sure I ordered the correct part,which arrived in one day (amazingly). Everything was clearly described in the instructions and if you have done electrical work this would be relatively easy. You will need a specific screw driver bit to open the control panel but everything else is straightforward, just follow the instructions. Works perfectly now (I needed a new control panel about a year ago and Kenmore charged me $229 but it was just over a year since then....) PartSelect is a great service!

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.

After bailing out the unit, filled filter hole with a moderate amount of Dawn dish washing detergent. Ran dishwasher twice to remove all Dawn from the unit. Had to bailout the water (and suds) from the washer both times. After the dishwasher finally drained I inserted the new filter..