66513173K700 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

It was ok but screw holes were not in the right spot but we put one in and that is sufficient for now. It prevent thing from follow under it.

1. Cut power to dishwasher
2. Cut water to dishwasher
3. Remove two screws that secure panel under door
4. Remove door and insulation behind it
5. Inlet valve assembly is located just behind panel on the left side
6. With your hand, press the tab on the green terminal that holds the wire harness.
7. Disconnect the harness and make sure you watch where it goes when you let go of it.
8. Unscrew the single screw that holds the inlet valve assembly to the frame.
9. With this screw out, you should be able to rotate the valve assembly around to get at the bits you need to disconnect.
10. Using pliers, slide the hose clamp up the black hose.
11. Put down a rag or paper towel because the next step involves water.
12. Carefully rotate the black hose back and forth while pulling on it to slide it off over the barbed nozzle. Probably this will take both hands. Some water will come out of the hose when you get it off.
13. Remove the incoming water supply hose from the brass fitting at the bottom of the assembly. The nature of the connection will vary. For my dishwasher, there was a brass elbow fitting I had to disconnect and then re-use with the new valve. Most likely you'll need a hex wrench and/or adjustable wrench. I had to place the disconnected valve assembly in a vise to get the elbow fitting off.
14. Discard the old valve assembly and begin attaching parts to the new one.
15. Connect the incoming water supply. When attaching the incoming water hose to the brass fitting, use a pipe thread sealant such as Tru-Blu.
16. Connect the black hose to the barbed nozzle and put the hose clamp back in position. It may be helpful to apply a dab of dish soap or food-grade synthetic grease to the nozzle to help slide the hose on.
17. Mount the valve assembly to the dishwasher frame using the existing screw.
18. Reconnect the wire harness.
19. Before you replace the panel under the door, go ahead and turn the water supply and electric power back on.
20. Turn the dishwasher on with nothing in it.
21. Inspect the area around the valve assembly to be sure it isn't leaking.
22. Once you're sure there are no leaks, turn the dishwasher off and cut electrical power again.
23. Reinstall the kick panel and insulation. You may need to spend some time adjusting its position to get the screw holes to line up.
24. Turn power back on and enjoy your dishwasher.

Followed the YouTube video linked with the part ordered and it was an absolute dream

GOT INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE DISHWASHER. WATCHED THE TUTORIAL ON YOUR WEBSITE AND DID THE SAME ON MY DISHWASHER.

I am an 84 year-old woman so I asked another woman friend to help me. We removed both shelves from interior of dishwasher then unscrewed the first screw of the slim plastic piece on the top of the interior; then the second screw. We pulled the plastic piece gently down, removed the little round part out of the groove. We placed the new round part in the groove (ball down), pushed the spinner onto it so it would click on & hold. That required a bit of strength. Replaced screws & it was done!

Removed the 10 screws holding the inner panel to the outer panel of the door. Removed inner panel to access latch/switch, then removed 2 screws to remove latch/switch. Then disconnected the 2 wires to the switch, connected wires to the new latch/switch and installed. Replaced all screws and voila, a working dishwasher! An easy 20 minute job with the help of the video.

0) assure main power was off
1) Opened up the panel assembly according to the instructions and the partselect video using the torx driver.
2) snipped the wires from the old part
3) patched in the new part by twisting the wire ends, inserting them into the assembly and tightening the screws.

Had my dishwasher up and running again within 15 minutes.

Was a simple task to perform, a child could have done it. The technical skills diagnosing it was a bit hard though. The skills finding the culprit was indeed simple. Rubber was torn. Dishes would not come clean especially on the top & would not dry properly. The rubber piece being torn in half made it hard for the water & soap to despense to the top through thh center plastic tube, but now it cleans great. Thank's
Now to find out why it won't dry properly at the heating element is another task. It leaves water droplets on the dishes.
Once I got the rubber screw on attachment installed the dishes are clean & dry now & no water dropplets on the dishes.
The water dispenses up to the top like it suppost to throught the small tube to wash the upper rack dishes.
The wife is happy now she doesn't have to clean & dry them by hand.
Thank's so very much!!
Now on to the next project in hand to submit later on.

First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.

After replacing garbage disposal. I referred to you video you sent me when i received the new replacement hose. That made it look very easy to install. Thank you for all your help and support.

Once I figured it out it was not bad at all and most of all it worked, no leaks. I just cleaned some old glue off the stainless steel, dried it well, ran a bead of glue like directions showed, squeezed in the new gasket, closed the door for 24 hours then ran the dishwasher. No Problems.

Turned power and water off. Removed the washer from the kitchen cabinet cavity. Removed lower cover plate. Rocked the washer over on it's side and rested it at 45 degrees on a stool to allow better access to the bottom. Followed the video installation instructions from partselect.com which worked out perfectly. Put it upright again, hooked up water and power and ran a rinse cycle to test the fittings for leaks. All good, so put lower plate back on and pushed back into the cavity. Put the kettle on for a cup of tea!

I went on line and saw a video mentioning it may be the fuse and in order to verify that, take piece of scrap wire and jump pass the fuse.If the lights come on then its the fuse,I did and it was.So I found your web site, typed in the word fuse and the part number came up w/ your video showing how to install it. It was GREAT and what a great idea too having the video available w/ the part! I killed the power and I unscrewed the screws and placed them in the pattern they came out of because some are longer than others. I supported the front cover with my knee and had found the wires in advance so I knew which ones to cut, strip and screw into the new replacement part.I replaced it back in the snap on fuse holder and re-screwed it back together starting with the latch ones, using a criss cross pattern like on a tire. And that was that...I will DEFINITELY use this site again...........hopefully not for a while! Thanks so much.

Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.

After doing some research on the Kitchen Aid issues. I turned off the breaker. Remove the (6) #15 Torx bit screws from the inside upper panel and removed the outside control panel. I located the Bi-Metal Fuse. I turned the breaker back on.Took a Electric Meter and it showed power only on one side. I order the part (BI-Metal Fuse) from the company. Turned the breaker off to there dishwasher. Very easy to install. I cut and trim the (2) wires. Match the black wire with the white stripe to the exact same color code and do the same for the all black wire. Install one wire at a time and tighten down with a small pocket screw driver. Then use the plastic tie straps to secure the (Bi-Metal Fuse).Turn the breaker back on. You are good to go.