66513124K701 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

The leak was dripping from the diverter motor. After removing dishwasher the diverter motor was found to be corroded. The shaft grommet looked good. A new diverter motor was installed and dishwasher connected. After running it awhile the leak reappeared. It seemed the only possible thing left was the shaft grommet. Of course the grommet comes as part of the belly assembly. After searching for a better and cheaper solution I ordered a Whirlpool WPW10195677 grommet and it solved the leak.

This was an easy repair. The leak was around the solenoid of the inlet valve and thus the assembly needed replacement. Turn off the water. Take the screws that secure it to the cabinet out. Pull the dishwasher out where you can tip it on its side. (you might get someone to help you hold it tipped. Disconnect the water line (copper) and the inlet hose (just clipped on)and the electric connection.
Take one screw out that holds the valve assembly in place and remove the valve assembly.
Put the new assembly in as the reverse procedure. Make sure to use plumbing tape on the threads to the copper water connection so that you wont have a drip leak when its tightened.

Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back
on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine powered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24

After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.

Popped out old wheel housing. Popped in replacement with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Easy.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Partselect.com. Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

First I unplugged the dishwasher.Then I removed 6 Torx screws, popped off cover, cut wires to old fuse, stripped wire, placed wires in new part, tightened screws, reassembled in reverse order, plugged unit back in and tested. WOO HOO!

I saved over $150.00 by doing it myself instead of having a repairman come out! That's 4 free fishing trips!

Removed the Bi-Metal fuse and ordered a new one and recerved it two days after ordering. Replaced it and it worked.

I ordered this part after the sanitized light on my dishwasher was flashing. The dishes were no longer drying. To replace the part, my husband pulled out the dishwasher and unscrewed some nuts (accessing under the heater through the side openings). The entire repair took under 15 minutes, and works perfectly. I have to mention that the heater was shaped differently than the one it replaced, but was a perfect fit in the clips.

It was easy! First I ordered the expensive replacement parts on line. The parts arrived in one week. I was able to slide the old drawers out, slip a few parts off of the old drawers, snap them on and slide the new drawers in place!

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

Remove two screws at top that fasten dishwasher to cabinet. Slide dishwasher out to expose the two links that attach the door to the springs. Fit the new links to the springs and door.