58714001990 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Lower the door and remove bottom dish tray. Feel with fingers the area where gasket will be pulled from (just below bottom door edge) Pull old gasket from door edge into direction of inside dishwasher. Insert new one in same orientation as old (small slit to right side). New gasket strip will seat into door bottom.

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

I just did the repair just like the video suggests to fix it. I disconnected the power cord, shut off and took apart the water inlet line, and drain line. Unscrewed the top of the washer from the cabinet and pulled out the dishwasher. Tilted the washer to better get to the bottom and took off the connecting wires (red and white.) Unscrewed the brass nuts holding the heating element and removed the element from the machine. Took out the bottom sprayer arm. Replaced the element, replaced the brass nuts and connected the wires back up. Put the sprayer arm back in. Pushed the machine back into place and re-secured the top to the cabinet. Hooked all water, drain, and power lines back up and all was good again.

I removed the screws on the inside of the dishwasher door to remove the front facade to get access to the door latch assembly, I think about 6 screws. Then I unscrewed the two hex screws that mounted the latch assembly to the door. I then had to un-hook the electrical wires (4 plugs, 2 on a side) from the assembly. I attached those same plugs to the new door latch, and mounted the assembly back on with the two screws, and tested the door to see if it closed, latched, and if the dish washer would run (since I unhooked and rehooked up the electrical wires). Finally I screwed the front facade back on and was done. It took about 5 minutes. I did get a small shock when I was removing the electrical plugs from the old assembly from touching the metal dish washer door and one of the plugs at same time.

I removed the screws from the inside of the door. There are also tiny screws you have to remove that holds the part onto the door. Then I was able to remove the part, unplug the power receptacles and install the new part. Very simple!!

After receiving my part in a timely manner, I removed the six screws holding the cover on the door. After making sure the appliance was unplugged, I removed the two star screws and removed the broken latch assembly. I disconnected the four electrical wires noting their placement. I connected the wires to the new latch assembly, screwed the assembly to the door, and replaced the cover on the door. That was one of the best quick-fix experiences I have ever had. Thanks PartSelect.com!!!!

I removed 6 screws to get to the door latch, then removed 2 screws to remove the broken latch assembly. Changed out 4 wires, reinstalled the 2 screws that attached the latch to the door,thenreinstall the 6 screws that assemble the door back together. Everything fit and works properly. Thanks guys, your service was great.

Both the door latch assembly and strike broke on the dishwasher. I was happy to find both parts available at PartSelect.com. Simply removed mounting screws so I could pull the dishwasher out, removed the old strike, disconnected the 4 wire attachments and removed the ddor latch assembly, and re-assembled with the new parts. Pretty easy job- the only unusual thing was that you need a torx screwdriver for the latch assembly.

First I removed the two screws that hold the dishwasher in place, I pulled out the dishwasher and on the bottom right located the leak. The two brass nuts that hold the heating element in place. The wires had been rusted to the element so I cut the wires (and later spliced them back together) and unscrewed the brass nuts. I ordered the part after finding them very easily on partselect.com and 2 days later screwed them back on to the dishwasher. Spliced the wires back together and put the dishwasher back in place.

Easy Fix.

We ordered the correct part, it came in perfect condition. We took out the rusted rack, rolled in the new one and it fit perfectly! We are thrilled!

Removed damaged strike plate from dishwasher and screwed new part into place. Tested and dishwasher worked fine. Took less than 15 minutes to get the job done. Was very pleased with how fast the part was delivered.

Removed the bottom panel, and I had to disconnect the water supply, which did NOT use flexible tubing (much to my disappointment), removed the screws holding the diswasher in the cabinet. Slid it out, took the old springs off, put the new ones on.

It was pretty straightforward -- no big deal.

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!