58715074201 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Very, very easy. Pop off the old wheels and snap the new ones into place on the rack.

pulled DW out from under counter. drained water from unit. laid DW on its side. removed 5 screws from unit 2 to remove drain motor and three to remove bracket. used adj pliers to remove spring clamp and screwdriver to remove other clamp. to install i did the reverse

Took off front door panel with two screws. Found the part in the door. took it out and slide the new part in. My husband screwed the screws while I held the door in place. If I had known it was so easy to do I would have done it as soon as I got the part but I waited for my husbands help.

Our dishwasher handle was broken and I stumbled upon PartSelect's YouTube video that described how to change the Latch Assembly while looking for a new dishwasher. It looked easy so I thought that I would give it a try. The hardest part of the installation was finding which circuit breaker shut off the dishwasher. That being said, our dishwasher was slightly different from the model shown in the video. When we unscrewed the screws on the inside of the door the top part of our dishwasher did not come off and fall forward as it did in the video. Our control panel was longer and continued beneath the front panel. We could not access the latch assembly until we removed two small screws near the bottom of the dishwasher door and popped the front panel off. Other than that it was exactly as the video showed. EXCELLENT service. I ordered the part and received it the next day. WOW. I would recommend this website to anyone who needs appliance parts.

Pulled the dishwasher out from under the ounter, laid it flat on the front side, unplugged the motor, removed two screws and the retaining clip, pulled the motor straight out, oiled and put the new o-rings on the new motor, slid it in, replaced the clip and two screws, reinstalled the dishwasher, and done.

After several years of use and cleaning the small "nubs" that held the locking peice on the assembly under the jet arm had worn off. This allowed the whole thing to spin and the dishes weren't getting clean. Finding the part on the site was easy, it arrived amazingly fast and all is up and working great. I have used Parts Select 2 or 3 times in the past and have always had the same great results. Saved me a bunch in repair bills. Thanks

My upper spray arm attaches to the upper dish rack. It comes in four parts: the spray arm, the bracket which attaches it to the rack, the water funnel, and a plastic nut that holds the pieces together. The nut was worn and wouldn't hold so I replaced that piece and it works great. It took less than one minute to fix.

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

two screws, and pull unit out from under counter, turn on it's side. Two allen-head screws to remove motor retaining clip, unplug wires, and remove motor. Reassemble, using silicone grease on O-rings that seal motor. That's it.

I removed the screws from the inside of the door. There are also tiny screws you have to remove that holds the part onto the door. Then I was able to remove the part, unplug the power receptacles and install the new part. Very simple!!

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

Easy