6651694993 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Reassembled lower access covers using the new screws purchased from parts direct, perfect fit replacement. Hardest part remembering how they fit Dishwasher.

After cleaning the filter located on top left of door(used a screw driver to pry out) and following the install gasket video problem solved.

Repair went exactly like the video i watched online. Perfect

As described with instructions, removed original "bearing," installed replacement, removed original spring, installed replacement springs. Not difficult.

Nozzle cap rubber housing was split and cracked. It simply unscrews. The replacement was a matter of screwing the new nozzle cap on. My wife was trusted with this installation. Believe me, this indicates how easy it was.

I USED A PLUMBER

Both springs (8066018 and 3368999) were replaced as recommended in your troubleshooting guide, but did not resolve the problem. Finally the Dual Motor, 3374501, was replaced. During the above, the plastic face of the door fell off, which created a nuisance task before proceeding to fix the original problem. However, while replacing the motor, I realized the purpose of the two, T-shaped studs sticking out of the motor. It is absolutely necessary that these sit inside the slots which engages the sliding plastic cover, which is spring loaded, in order to engage the release of the soap dispenser door. It was truly a learning experience, but I got it done.

We read your help site and was able to find what was causing our water filling probelms. Order the valve intake part and made the repair and the dishwasher works like new. You saved us a repair bill from the professionals and they couldn,t done a better job. I will recommand to site to everyone. Thanks Again

Did not use the new parts. After removing the spray arm, found a screw out of place. Put the seal ring back in place and the screw back in the hole. Machine works like new.

So my dishwasher is 20 some years old. Woke up in the morning to smell burning plastic and the dishwasher never moving to the next part in the cycle. I thought it was the high limit, then the cycling thermostat(because cycling you'd think it was cycling wrong). Nope. It was working fine. I used a multimeter to test the high limit(ohm reading will be closed at room temp) and for the cycling(will be open at room temp, so use a multimeter with alligator clips and a lighter to trigger it to close). All of my existing parts were fine. So I went to the timer and tested with alligator clips, each part that connected during the timing cycle. Sure enough. On the rinse and pump water out part, the contact point wasnt connecting due to corrosion and a bent prong. So I rebent it and cleaned all the contact points. All you need to do on these old washers is pull out the timer and pull off the thin plastic "sheild" over the thing. Guess what. I have a working dishwasher after having done the impossible and fixed my timer. So for those who have a dish washer that won't advance, but you can hear your timer advancing with the clicks, this is your problem. Saved myself an unknown amount of money because they don't make my timer anymore.

I replaced the seals per the video instructions.

Swapped out the old upper dish rack with a new one. A video made the change simple.

Unscrewed old access panel from dishwasher. Took out insulation and glued to new access panel. Took off bottom panel and placed on new front access panel. New panel fit perfectly on front of dishwasher. Hard part was getting the bottom panel to stay on new front access panel, but hammered it in place protecting the new access panel with Styrofoam cushion. Took about 45 minutes from start to finish. Used DW-40 around screw holes, because of age of dishwasher and rust setting up over years (22 years old).

The whole job took less than 5 minutes...no tools were needed The diagnosis was right on the money

quick and easy,tine-row just snapped right in! Took about 15 seconds!