58716074200 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I'm a stay-at-home mom of 3 kids, so I enlisted the help of my oldest son (5 years old) for this job while the 2 little ones were asleep! First we cut the power to the dishwasher, then we removed the 2 bottom screws on the stainless steel front and slid it off to expose the back of the dispenser. We removed the red and white wires from the left side of the dispenser, took out the 6 screws holding the dispenser in place, put in the new dispenser, hooked up the red and white wires (in the right order), and flipped the breaker back on! We ran a cycle to make sure it worked, and it did!! My husband was thrilled! He thought for sure we needed a new dishwasher! :o) Thank you, PartSelect!

Removed the 4 screws that held the dishwasher in place, tilted it out, removed 2 nut screws on striker, installed new striker and put it back together. Very simple.

Thank you for stocking the parts and shipping them as promised.

Remove 3 screws from stem assembly. Swapped the old for the new, replace screws. Installed and lock lower wash wand. Fixed in 5 min. Great service and prices. My wife thanks you. (Had to hand wash dishes for a few days) thanks

Removed the bottom covering on dishwasher and then ran it to figure out where the leak was coming from. Noticed it was dripping off hose, but not actually leaking from hose.

Unplugged dishwasher and slid it out from cabinet area (be sure to turn off and disconnect water supply)

Followed delivery tube up side of dishwasher to top of tub and noticed reminents of where water ran down side of tub.

Loosened delivery tube by plastic nut inside of tube and removed. Noticed gasket was partially depleted.

Ordered new gasket, replaced and put everything back together. (Be sure to use teflon tape on water source fitting and tighten firmly). No leaks

DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO REMOVE THE INNER DOOR SCREWS!!!!! I was and added about 10 minutes to a repair that should take less than 5. The lower door gasket just pulls out the bottom of the door. No tools required, just pull it out. The new one just pushes in, no click or anything, just make sure it bottoms into the groove.

After having a repairman out to changing the door handle and seeing how easy it was...I decided to try to fix the spring issue myself. I am fairly confident with most small fix it items in our house, so decided to order the original spring & linkage. The website was pretty self-explanatory, but wished someone hinted that when you have one broken spring, the other usually goes out within a short period of time. Note to others, ordered 2 springs & linkage and avoided another shipping charge. Do both springs at the same time, and will save you time in the long run. Otherwise, super easy to change out...wish all appliance issues were this easy to fix. I did not need to take of door off....I just needed to lay on floor & become a little limber. Other than that...super easy.

This was pretty easy. It was a guess as to the problem, but there much debate , if the water isn't moving it had to be the pump, right?. So i replaced the circulation pump. 2 screws on the top and two trim screws on the bottom, and it slides right out. Then UNPLUG IT.. Take the screen out of the bottom on the inside and make sure you get all the water out or it will end up on the floor when you tip it on it's side. The directions were ok, i looked over them briefly but didn't use them. tools were, phillips srewdriver, torx driver (pump bracket srews) wire stripper/crimper (for the plug adaptor) and a heat gun, (for the heat shrink tube for the crimp connection). Overall it was pretty easy. the pump was made to be easy to replace. 45 min and back in action.

Removing two screws on the inside of the door alows the outside panel to slide down and detach. The soap dispenser connects with six screws and two wires. Remove the dispenser through the inside of the door. Replace, reattach and reasseble in 15 minutes.

I took the bottom parts out. This can basically be done without tools. You need a phillips to unscrew 3 screws to remove the stem. Then easily replace with the new one. Putting the spiny washing part was kinda weird because I was afraid to break the nubs off again. I took the whole bottom carriage out so I could see better, pushed down kinda hard and twisted the right way (figure out which way needs to be twisted before hand by looking through the bottom of the stem).

remove vanity panel
disconnect copper supply line from valve
remove valve mounting screws
rotate valve to access hose clamp
loosen clamp and slide up rubber tubing about 2 inches
pull hose off barbed fitting and remove old valve
reverse order with new valve

Unplugged dishwasher, removed the 2 wires clipped to the heating element, removed both cracked nuts, replaced with new nuts from PartSelect, clipped on wires, plugged in and did a test cycle. Based upon service quote from Best Buy, I saved myself $125.00 for just the call out, not including parts and labor.

I took out the four screws that hold the front plate on and removed the latch/switch combo. Two screws hold that on, so i removed them and disconnected tthe wires. Put new assembly in place, reconnected the wires and put it all back together. Case, and door, closed. By the way, getting my part from PartSelect was very easy.

Removed old spray arm, fitted new spray arm. VEry easy. Sorry I didn't do it months ago

Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"

Removed screws and put new bottom gasket in old one just fell out.