36314191990 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

The motor/pump Kit I purchased could fix/be installed in any GE dishwasher made since 1970. I would guess that the one I have is about 15-20 years old. I encountered only one small problem with the kit------ a motor hanger that had to be bent a bit to fit correctly. Other than that it was a total breeze. The clear instructions included in the kit helped quite a bit. In 30 minutes or so ,I was done and our machine was back in operation

Followed easy instructions and completed repair in less than 30 minutes.

Removed old gasket, cleaned grooves, installed new gasket

Dishwasher had become noisier & noisier in last year during wash & rinse cycles. After looking at various web sites, decided to first pull motor/pump & try cleaning it out. That made no difference. Also looked for anything loose that could cause vibration. No change in operation. Decided to go for replacing motor/pump & found Part Select had best price. Part came next day! I was amazed! Looked at video, then removed old unit and attached new one. Easy because it was exactly same connections. Ran dishwasher and it sounded 100% quieter - like when new! Very happy!!

Removed old gasket. Then cleaned the track with a strong paper towel soaked in Windex to remove accumulated scale/soap. Followed the instructions provided with the gasket. I did not need to remove any screws from the door nor did I need to tumble the gasket in a dryer to remove kinks (There really were no kinks in the gasket, as supplied.). I did use a mirror to locate where the gasket should go underneath the bottom of the door, which you can't see. Feeling for the track with your fingers was sufficient for the installation.

I unscrewed the front of the door almost to the bottom hinges and removed the latch. Went on line and ordered a replacement. The replacement arrived in a couple days (yeh), was identical to the one I had removed. I could have used another hand but went ahead and replaced it myself. It worked perfectly and I screwed everything back in place. I'm a 73-year-old female, good at taking things apart but not always good at putting them back together but will try anything. Was elated that I could repair it and it actually worked. Great service from your company!

Instead of purchasing a new dishwasher, I elected to replace the motor/pump assembly which the existing was noisy and leaking water. To start to took pictures of the existing assembly and marked the wiring connections. I read the instructions a few times until I fully understood and had the necessary parts identified. The only problem was the bracket that holds the solenoid has two holes for mounting the drain feedback bracket were not threaded. I was able to tap the holes (metric) and mount the bracket. Caution must taken not damage the solenoid coil.

Too easy- what made it easier was this is a portable roll-around unit I could lay on it's back. Loosen the two clamps around the washer pump, hook up the drain solenoid, washer motor wires, attach the motor hanger, that's basically it. It took longer to make sure I was working from the right set of instructions- this pump covers several models. Once I had that right, it was really a snap. Now the unit is so quiet. It once sounded like a jet engine in the kitchen, now it runs so quiet you can hear the water splashing around inside- a big improvement. We should be able to hang onto this thing for a while longer.

I removed the plastic inner door liner, removed the timer assembly. Replaced both plastic parts, Detergent cup release arm and dispenser release timer lever. The most difficult part was reassembling the timer lever spring. Long nose pliers made it simple. Works like new.

Had to install a new door latch. The installation itself is really quite simple involving removing (separating) the inner door panel to access the latch assembly. The latch is removed by simple push through one slot with a screw driver and the new unit basically pops in through grooved slots. However, I did find it quite helpful to first (and during) review a YouTube video illustrating the replacement. Although it is largely a simple procedure, for the first-time "installer" there are still a few tricky nuances to be aware of.

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.

Turn off the power at the breaker panel. Turn off the water supply that goes to the dishwasher. Remove the front lower panel to gain access to disconnect the water line and electric. Now remove the two screws that connect the dishwasher to the countertop. You should be free to slide the dishwasher from under the countertop far enough to remove the drain hose. Slide the dishwasher out all the way and lay on the floor door down. Loosen the two clamps that hold the motor up. Remove the motor bracket, (should only be one screw. Disconnect the wires from the motor. Now just pull the motor down and out. Repeat the process to install the new motor. I took several pictures before I started removing anything. The instruction that comes with the kit is very good. Their will be parts in the kit that will not be used. Not to worry!

I had some extra problems with my water supply line since this is an old house, but I won't dwell on that. If you have an older model like mine (probably 80's) the only trick is with the drain solenoid. The kit uses a newer style solenoid that is a little different. Without getting too technical here, let me just say that if the old solenoid has a little metal lever that is actuated when the plunger goes down do not discard it. From what I have read, the dishwasher will shut down with an error code if you don't use this part and you will also have 2 wires that are just hanging there with nothing to plug in to. You will need to use an included metal plate and screws to adapt that part to the new assembly. It takes a little mechanical aptitude, but after you figure it out it works perfectly. I did not see this mentioned in the instructions but the necessary parts were included. Replacing the pump and motor was fairly simple, and all the needed parts were included in the kit. I did remove the unit from under the counter and lay it on it's back for easy access to the pump and motor. It helps to watch some You-tube videos if you are unsure about how to do this, but make sure they are working on the brand you have. All dishwashers are NOT the same.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.