6651581590 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Opened the door by using a star screwdriver. Pulled the door inside from the outside. Located the broken spring, put in new one (be very carefull to see how the insides are put together..makes life ALOT easier), and carefully put back together.

You slide the pin that holds the door in the first hole. then you slide the spring in next. The you slide the pin through the last hole. After that you gently push the door onto the pin till it snaps into place. And your done.

dropped the new float in, works like a charm

screw it in then hook up the hose.

Remove blown high limit therm.and replace with the new high limit

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

After attempting to change the "high limit switch" to no avail, I researched further and found that doing a reset/reboot cured the problem.The instructions for the high limit thermostat were a bit off, as there was no screw to remove, only a spring like bracket that I did not try to figure out. The work area is so tight if the dishwasher is not removed and tilted that I thought it best to look for alternatives prior to pulling it out and disconnecting power and water. So ... voila, it's fixed with a reset only. Reset is accomplished by pushing two buttons 5 times. "high Temp Scrub then Heat Dry, high temp scrub then heat dry etc, until you click them both 5 times.It will go through cycles for a few minutes, then after done, run the dishwasher as normal and test if fixed. There are a few different ways to do it depending on the model.

The video was of great help. One area that gave me grief was placing the small part with points under the plastic mechanism in the door. I tried to push the points into the open slot. After watching the movie a few more times I was trying to put the part in backwards. A little more explanation at this point in the video would have been a tremendous help. Otherwise, thank you for the video.

I could not find a 90 degrees 1 inch car wrench and by them the impeller head wish is plastic was all run down so nothing will hold it, finally, I heat up a flat screw driver and cut the impeller near the head whit the help of a hammer , and them I could grab it with a pressure wrench and loose the screw up. finally the fix when fine and is working good. the parts are just the ones I need it. Thank you.

The hardest part was locating the leak. After consulting the other repair suggestions, I concluded that the gasket was a little more worn on one side than the other so I ordered the gasket. The evening before the gasket arrived (quick delivery from partselect.com) I decided to shim out the old gasket with some old door insulation. It made the door harder to close but it didn't leak any more. When the gasket arrived I replaced the old with the new. It leaked more than ever. After reading more repair instructions, I decided to take apart the door vent and check it. It was packed solid with gunk. After a good cleaning, I put everything back together. No leaks! I tried every repair listed except the door vent. Guess steam is a good gunk conduit LOL. I supposed I didn't really need the new door gasket but I can tell the door has a tighter seal now. Here's a tip to watch for. If the door doesn't leak right away after the washer starts, take the door apart and look at the vent. It can look just fine from the outside and that's deceiving. Someone else mentioned the 'leak' timing that finally got my attention and lead to the 'fix.'

Turned off electric to machine.Removed water with shop vac, Removed lower panel, removed drain hose from check valve and garbage disposal. using shop vac removed blockage from drain hose. Reconnected hose turned on electric cycled dishwasher. Didn't work. Turned off electric, removed water, removed basket, sprayer arm, pump cover, used a six point deep socket to hold impeller while removing 1/4 in. screw. Removed the impeller and found the problem.The lower impeller shaft is broke. removed separator, chopper blade and spring, removed pump cover and broken drain impeller and lower seal. Cleaned all old parts and installed new drain pump kit. Replaced spray arm , basket . Turned electric on, cycled the machine one time. Checked for leaks, replaced lower panels. Put away tools. Your video was very helpful. Your service was great. I received the parts the next day after ordering them. thank you. thank you.

We followed the excellent video until we couldn't remove the outlet impeller because the motor shaft was not being held by the failed impeller. We drilled small holes around the impeller shaft until we could break off the upper part of the pump shell. Then we could hold the motor shaft with a vice-grip pliers by squeezing the shaft of the remaing impeller piece. We then removed the retaining screw and the rest of the impeller. Then evrything went well by following the video. There was still a bit of doubt because we discarded more old parts then expected but the machine now works well and we see no leaks.

Watched your video

Turned off power to dishwasher. Removed inner door panel. Cut wires as directed and installed new switches. Also installed new spring on soap door opener. Reassembled, ran and tested. Take your time, this repair is pretty simple.

I replaced the seal, still leaked. Once I noticed that it was only leaking from the left side, we did a Google search to find that the screen in the upper left of the door could be the issue, causing back pressure. Once the screen was cleaned, no more leaks.