58715079200 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

two screws, and pull unit out from under counter, turn on it's side. Two allen-head screws to remove motor retaining clip, unplug wires, and remove motor. Reassemble, using silicone grease on O-rings that seal motor. That's it.

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

I removed 6 screws to get to the door latch, then removed 2 screws to remove the broken latch assembly. Changed out 4 wires, reinstalled the 2 screws that attached the latch to the door,thenreinstall the 6 screws that assemble the door back together. Everything fit and works properly. Thanks guys, your service was great.

Both the door latch assembly and strike broke on the dishwasher. I was happy to find both parts available at PartSelect.com. Simply removed mounting screws so I could pull the dishwasher out, removed the old strike, disconnected the 4 wire attachments and removed the ddor latch assembly, and re-assembled with the new parts. Pretty easy job- the only unusual thing was that you need a torx screwdriver for the latch assembly.

Easy

I removed the screws from the inside of the door. There are also tiny screws you have to remove that holds the part onto the door. Then I was able to remove the part, unplug the power receptacles and install the new part. Very simple!!

After receiving my part in a timely manner, I removed the six screws holding the cover on the door. After making sure the appliance was unplugged, I removed the two star screws and removed the broken latch assembly. I disconnected the four electrical wires noting their placement. I connected the wires to the new latch assembly, screwed the assembly to the door, and replaced the cover on the door. That was one of the best quick-fix experiences I have ever had. Thanks PartSelect.com!!!!

I removed the screws on the inside of the dishwasher door to remove the front facade to get access to the door latch assembly, I think about 6 screws. Then I unscrewed the two hex screws that mounted the latch assembly to the door. I then had to un-hook the electrical wires (4 plugs, 2 on a side) from the assembly. I attached those same plugs to the new door latch, and mounted the assembly back on with the two screws, and tested the door to see if it closed, latched, and if the dish washer would run (since I unhooked and rehooked up the electrical wires). Finally I screwed the front facade back on and was done. It took about 5 minutes. I did get a small shock when I was removing the electrical plugs from the old assembly from touching the metal dish washer door and one of the plugs at same time.

Turned off elecrtic and water to dishwasher and pulled dishwasher out from under cabinet. Removed broken hose using pliers to open hose clamps.
installed new hose.

- Shut off the electricity and water to the unit
- Pull the unit out, tip it on its side. Pump is easily accessable on the bottom.
- Undo the inlet & outlet hose clamps, two screws, and two wire connectors. (Pay attention to which way they went on.)
- Put the new pump in the same way and reconnect everything.
- Tip the unit back up and push it into the counter, making sure not to kink the hoses or anything.
- That's it. New pump is quiet, and no more smell!

Used pliers to remove old seal. Keep seal in position, note the notch facing the hole. Align the new seal, press it in, the notch helps align. Mine slipped in easy

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

Removed damaged strike plate from dishwasher and screwed new part into place. Tested and dishwasher worked fine. Took less than 15 minutes to get the job done. Was very pleased with how fast the part was delivered.