66515872000 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

1) Remove top and bottom dish baskets from the dishwasher, this will give you room to work. To remove top basket there are clips at the end of the slide rails.
2) Remove lower spray arm by unscrewing plastic screw, it should only be hand tight.
3) In order to remove the strainer cover, you will need to remove the plastic tube that takes water to the middle and top spray arms. Unclip this tube from the top and middle clips and then work it out of the strainer assembly tube. Now you should be able to remove the tube at the bottom of the dishwasher by unscrewing it 1/4 turn.
4) Remove the strainer cover by unscrewing the 4 Torqs screws.
5) You will now see two smaller torqs screws that hold the hold the Chopper Assembly cover down. Take these two screws out and remove the two piece cover.
6) Pull out the broken Chopper Assembly, make sure you get all the pieces!
7) Install the new Chopper Assembly. Make sure that you install the Assembly with the small part of the screen towards the bottom of the housing. Also make sure you compress the spring as you install the part. I used a small pair of neddle nose pliers to compress the spring behind the screen in order to install the chopper assembly.
8) Put everything back together and make sure it works!

Rather than remove the pump assembly - as an earlier post had done - I pulled the entire dishwasher out and laid it down on the floor. This allowed easy, direct access to the motor (that was the hard, messy part). From this point it was easy. Unplug the wiring, remove the retaining bolt, rotate the motor off the mounting brackets and pull it out. Then put the new one in. That was the easy part (about 15 minutes). The entire job took 2-and-a-half hours, most of which was taken in disconnecting, cleaning up and reconnecting the dishwasher. It's much quieter now.

1. Remove torx screws around outer edge of inside of door.
2. Separate outer door panel from inner door panel.
3. Locate dispenser, and remove 6 hex nuts and 2 wires for solenoid.
4. Insert new dispenser and re-insert hex nuts.
5. Reinsert torx screws.

I went on the internet and found a pdf file with the Kitchenaid dishwasher repair manual for my model. One of the hardest parts of the job was convincing myself that I could do the job. When you're young, you just go out and buy a new dishwasher and tell yourself, "it's only money, we'll make more." When you're over 50, you tell yourself, "I can fix this. It will mean I get to retire a week sooner if I don't spend another $700 for a new dishwasher."

In hindsight, I could have done this job (replace the motor) in about 30 minutes. 1) Turn off electrical breaker in basement. 2) slide out dishwasher. 3) disconnect water supply. 4) use old towels to soak up any water still in the tub. 5) turn dishwasher on it's side. 6) unhook the wire harness plug from the motor, squeeze with fingers to unhook. 7) unbolt motor, 1 bolt. 8) turn motor counterclockwise, 1/4 turn. 9) pull motor out from sump, requires some force. 10) install new motor, but use some rinse aid to lubricate the rubber seal on it. Instead I did things the hard way and took the whole darn machine apart!!! See my story below.

I was surprised at how simple the design was and how few parts there really were inside the dishwasher. I found the pdf repair manual very useful, and I also found some repair videos on line. One thing they may or may not tell you - clean the parts well and lubricate the gaskets with some 'rinse aid' liquid when you put the machine back together. Also, it might help you to take a few pictures with a digital camera before you take things apart - that might help you remember how things go back together. Take close up pictures and use a treble light to illuminate the area when you're taking a picture.

The new motor was the ticket to fixing the loud noise. I was worried because the part cost $150. Before I ordered a new motor, I hooked up the old motor to electricity on my work bench and was able to recreate the really loud noise - so I was pretty sure that the new motor would eliminate the problem. It was very easy to install the new motor, only one bolt holds it in place. I did need to disassemble several parts to get to it though. Have no fear. One thing I did was mark the electric leads that went to the small pump with red and black sharpie markers so I could easily see which terminals to plug them back onto.

After reassembling the whole dishwasher with a new motor and testing the dishwasher for leaks by pouring a couple pitchers of water into it - I put the beast back under the counter (hooking it back up to the water supply line, the drain pipe to the garbage disposal and finally the electric supply). Then I ran it and water gushed out the bottom.

This whole job should have been easy, but things never go easy for me. Maybe if I would have lubricated the old sump gasket with rinse aid it would have sealed properly when I reinstalled it. Maybe if I would have cleaned the old sump gasket and the bottom of the tub really thoroughly things would have sealed right. But I didn't - so it leaked. I went ahead and bought a new sump gasket ($30 and had a few more days of waiting and self-doubt and having the dishwasher broken down). One the gasket came, I went through the entire uninstall, disassembly, reassembly and reinstall process AGAIN!!! This time with the new clean sump gasket and thoroughly cleaned surfaces. I also lubricated the gasket with rinse aid before installation. NO LEAKS! Job finished. Lessons learned. Doing it the first time was pretty tough though. Good luck! Get a helper for moral support and picture taking!

Worked the new gasket into the groove with a smooth screwdriver and my fingers. No leaks and it stays in place. Parts Select had the right part and I got it fast

I removed the end caps on the slides with needle nose pliers, removed the old wheels and installed the new ones, then I snapped the slide end caps back on. Super responsive service from PartSelect.com Thanks!

The hardest part of this was figuring out the cause of the leak. It only leaked while the washer was running (arms spinning). I thought it might be the air intake seal at the lower part of the door-but that did not look damaged.
I cleaned off the door gasket really good and that slowed the leak - so I figured the gasket was the problem (plus changing the gasket is cheap and it was old anyway).

I pulled the old gasket off (no tools required).
I cleaned the track/slot that the gasket goes into, and the area around it from all the caked-on soap and gunk.
Cleaned off the door edge that seals with the gasket too.
I took the new gasket and folded it in half to find the middle, then started with the middle, putting it into the track (used the center door latch on the frame to know the middle on the washer).
I worked the gasket into the slot just with my fingers. I found that if I pinched the part that goes into the slot with my thumb/finger that helped get it deep into the slot without tools.
I worked around one side, slowly and carefully pushing it into the slot. Did the other side the same way - starting from the middle and working down to the end at the bottom of the washer. Checked the gasket to make sure it was all set in well.
There is an inch or so of the gasket left over at the bottom - I just bent that around the bend so it was not in the way.

After removing the kickplate covers from the bottom front of the dishwasher by removing the 2 screws that attached the covers I determined the inlet valve was leaking, I turned of the water and disconnected the electricity from the dishwasher.
I rolled the dishwasher from under the counter and removed the water supply line from the elbow at the bottom of the dishwasher inlet valve with an adjustable wrench. We then set the dishwasher on its back to gain easy access to the inlet valve.
To remove the inlet valve, Using a philips head screwdriver I removed the one screw holding the bracket and the valve was loose from the dishwasher. Then, two wires were removed from the valve by sliding the clips from the tabs on the valve. The hose that carries the water to the dishwasher was removed by squeezing the clamp with pliers and sliding it onto the hose and pulling the hose from the nipple.
With the valve removed from the dishwasher, the elbow for the supply line can be removed from the bottom of the old valve and installed on the new valve using teflon tape to seal the connection.
The new inlet valve was then installed by reversing the procedure.
Checked to make sure there are no leaks and the dishwasher was good as new.

Carefully unscrewed the top screw holding the spray arm so it doesn't fall into the tub.

Pull down the arm gently and pop out any remaining parts from the old spinner.

While the spray arm is pulled down, snap the two parts of the spinner together: one from above the spray arm, and one from below the spray arm. (you need to snap them together before you screw the spray arm back, because it won't snap together otherwise.)

Rescrew the spray arm and you are done.

I first thought I may have a defective water feed tube that runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub aolng the back to the top. This is what the top rack sprayer plugs into to get water.

This was easily replaced by uncliping the feed tube by the two clips, one on the top of the tub and one in the back. You then give the feed tube a twist clockwise about 45 degree (relative to the bottom of the dishwasher). This will remove the feed tube and bottom sprayer.

However, this didn't fix the issue.

I then replaced the pump/motor. This is done by uninstalling the dishwasher and flipping it onto it's back so you can look at the bottom of the dishwasher. There is an electrial connector on the right side that needs to be disconnected. The motor is help on by one bolt in the back and a socket wrench with extender will be needed to get to it. Once the bolt is removed, and motor needs to be twisted about 45 degress so it feels "loose". Then you need to pull straight down and the motor will come off.

Just reverse all the steps to install the new motor.

But that didn't fix the issue either.

Come to find out, the problem I was having was the grinder screen was so gummed up with paper, the grinder broke and water was not getting through the screen. Here is how you replace the grider (which was the true fix to the problem).

- Remove the feed tube like I listed above. You DO NOT need to uninstall your dishwasher.

- Use a Torx driver to remove the three visible bolts on the bottom of the washer tub.

- Pull up on the plastic piece you just removed the screws to remove it.

- Use a smaller sized Torx driver to remove the one screw from the Grinder plate. Once you have the screw off, use a pair of pliers to pull straight up on post sticking straight up on the grinder housing.

-You can now see the grinder. Pull the screen and grinder assembly out. If it is still intact, just clean it and replace it back into its groove. If it is in pieces, it is destroyed and buy a new one.

- Reverse all the steps to put the dish washer back together.

This screen that fits into the groove was jammed up with paper and was causing my my issues. Once I placed this the macine worked great.

SAFTY: Turn water off. Flip the circuit breaker.
PREPARE FOR REMOVAL: Unscrew / Remove kickplate. Disconnected water connect just behind the kickplate. Be ready with a couple of dishtowels. Pull the door down and remove any screws that go into the under part of your counter top. Jack the front legs screw down.
REMOVE: Gently pull the Dishwasher from under counter. Push the insulation flat against the side of the dishwasher about every six inches that you pull the dishwasher out to prevent it from snaggin on the cabinet face edges. Remove the baskets and spray arms. Careful not to damage the heating element.
NOTE: Here I noticed that the guy who installed the dishwasher kinked the copper line limiting the water into to my dishwasher. So my circulation pump/motor was probably running dry. I replaced with a flex type "dishwasher" hose that will easily coil up behind / underneath without kinking when I push back in. DO THE REPAIR RIGHT - DO IT YOURSELF!
REPAIR: I gently laid the dishwasher on it's side (cardboard underneath). I disconnected the power - 2 wires. Then, I only disconnect one wire harness, the sump tubing and the I thought I'd better remove the impeller that the sump tubing was connected to (it was only attached with one screw). Remove the 3 plastic clips around the pump/motor. Carefully push the pump into the dishwasher. DO NOT LET THE PUMP FALL AS IT MAY DAMAGE THE HEATING ELEMENT IN THE DISHWASHER! Push the new pump/motor in place until the seal is at least flush with the bottom. I used the back of a wood spoon. Don't pull on any part of the motor from the bottom or you'll break the thin aluminum casting. Just inserting the plastic clips back in place will pull the seal flush with the bottom again.

I was lucky. I simply removed the motor/pump, replaced it with the new motor/pump, and put everything back together in reverse. I put a little bit of silicone grease on the o-ring of the temperature probe. I happened to have some silicone grease because I also have a pool.
Done. It cost me $220 Vs. $550 quoted by Sears. That doesn't count the extra Sears would have charged my for repairing the kinked copper line. And you know they would've kinked it again. That only cost me $20 more and the flexible line couldn't have been easier to install. I could have done the whole thing for less but I opted to replace the pump/ motor together.
Getting it all done right, no leaks, no kinked line, keeping the dishwasher that matches the other appliances (VS. replacing it at $550 repair price), all less than 1/2 the price of a quoted repair - PRICELESS. - THANK YOU PART SELECT. DISCLAIMER: I have no affiliation with Part Select.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

First I checked the power supply and noticed the breaker was not tripped. Confirmed the unit was getting power. I then downloaded a parts breakdown from the Kitchen Aid website and noticed there was a fuse mounted in the control section. Using my digital multimeter I confirmed there was no continuity through the fuse. I then ordered the part, installed it and washed a load of dishes:-)

Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.

Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.