66514792N510 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

All four original wheel assembly's were difficult to pop out so used pliers and cutter to brake original part and remove it. Nothing on the original wheel assembly was needed for the repair so braking them off was ok. The new wheel assembly parts, with two wheels on each (4 total), two wheel assembly's on each side of the rack, were easy to install- no tools needed. Each wheel assembly just popped right into place.

First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.

Remove entire top rack and place on a large flat work surface. A small screwdriver is needed to release several plastic clips holding the upper drawer slider brackets and manifold in place. Carefully pry the clips free of their mounting holes and remove the bracket. Take some time to study how things are held together before removing anything since one plastic clip is closely affected by the others. Without pictures, and a video, it's really difficult to put into words. I must stress, do not force anything. When disassembling, use the opposite side to as a visual aid to reassemble.

Hardest part was pulling dishwasher away from cabinet, making sure to not disturb water and drain line. I replaced both door springs which are on the two sides and attached to the dishwasher frame towards the back. This necessiatated pulling the dishwasher about 2/3 out of cabinet. After attaching both springs to frame, replacing the balance kit was a breeze .One screw to remove and then replace with new pulley unit. Attach the supplied cord with attached fittings to spring and then around two pulleys and mounting point on frame. Done . Push dishwasher back into cabinet, reattach two screws to underside of counter. Probably did not require new springs as they seem heavy duty and were not broken upon examination but ordered them also and replaced just in case. Most problem would be with broken cord in balance link kit

Actually, I found a video on Youtube with excellent instructions once you got past the really simple stuff like disconnecting power and water and drain.
I would recommend just finding a fairly similar model on Youtube and follow their directions. It was really easy.

I watched online repair video for replacing the part. 3 different clips held the part in place. Video showed how to properly remove each clip & also how to put them back on once part is replaced. Video was immensely helpful because I was afraid I break something else trying o remove them! I ordered & replaced the part by myself without help from my husband. My daddy would've been so proud. :)

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

Turned off power to the dishwasher. Removed the front panel via the screws on the inner wall of the door. Lifted and pulled out the front panel. Disconnected cable connections to fully remove the front panel. Pressed down on the latches to the left and right side of the door latch. Pulled out the door latch. Put in new door latch until it clicked into place. Reattached cable connections. Put the front panel back on with the screws. Turned back on power to the dishwasher.

Pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, removed faulty seal, installed new seal. Easy to understand directions are on web site.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

Two of the four small nylon/plastic tabs on the adjusters that support the top rack on the rack slides, broke off (one on each side).

Before the new parts arrived, I printed the limited (but definitely helpful) instructions that were available and familiarized myself with the adjuster assemblies.

As practice, I took one adjuster assembly apart making notes of any "gotchas." The main gotcha I found is that the nylon/plastic parts are easy to break (obviously) as prying is involved during removal and replacement. It took me about 20 to 25 minutes to take one side apart and about 10 minutes to put it back together again.

When the new parts arrived, I was able to do the first side in about 10 minutes (removal and replacement), and the second side in about 5 minutes, all because I had printed the instructions, familiarized myself, and practiced. I hope this helps.

Popped damaged/worn wheel assembly off, snapped new ones in. Easy peasy