66514759N510 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.

I followed the wonderful videos provided with the part and fixed the problem easily! I suggest making a separate instructional video on how to get the dishwasher out of the housing.

There were no instructions with the kit so I went online and watched a How-to video so I could fix it. However, the new white wheels were too big so I had to use the wheels from the old rack.

Turned off water supply to the unit. Removed plastic cover at bottom front. I only had to disconnect the copper water line to slide the unit about 1/3 of the way out. I then was able to reach the wires, disconnect them and use a stubby box/open end wrench (5/8? don't remember for sure) to remove the plastic nuts. I then opened the door, removed the bottom basket and slipped the element right out. Installation of new part was reverse.

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.

I broke it accidentally while trying to get it off and it would either not spin or fall off. I simply removed it out of the box and put it on. 2 turns to the right and I was done!

Ordered p/n PS10057154, sold as a kit of TWO upper rack tine rows. I received one. Customer service issued a return tag and ordered a second kit, which again was supposed to be two rows. Replacement order arrived with just one. Fortunately, I had expected this and had not yet returned the first kit. Called customer service and told them not to expect the return of the first order.

This kit is sold as fitting several models of Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, which I verified that my KA was on the list. A minor installation problem occurred when I discovered that the upright tines of this kit don't have the exact same spacing as the KitchenAid originals. The upright tines need to be exactly half the distance between each of the crossbars on the rack below in order to install the three retaining clips found on each row. With the spacing of these tines, there wasn't quite enough room to install the clips. Fortunately, the retaining clips were manufactured with an excessive amount of shoulder on each one. Trimming off the excess material with a fine-toothed hacksaw blade made the clips narrow enough to be used without compromising their ability to hold the tine rows in place. I've used the machine several times now and the clips are holding everything in place as expected.

[img]https://i.ibb.co/9TQB3mC/clips.jpg[/img]

Took minutes to repair. Unhooked the electrical plug connector to the drain pump. 1/4 turn to the left and pump was off. Just the opposite to install new pump

removed and installed cords with screw driver

Simply take out the lower dishwasher rack, grab a pair of pliers and gently pry the old assembly off and snap the new assembly into place. It's very easy.

Very easy to remove the broken one and just clip in the new one.

Took the kick plate off without removing the the machine.
Reached in and turned the existing pump to loosen it. Then disconnected the wire.
Reversed the process to install the new pump.

Replacing the rear wheel assembly isn't as easy as replacing the front, which took 5 minutes. You have to align the tine row, so it takes a few minutes more. But I'm a tiny woman with long nails, and if I can do it, you can do it!

Just watch the video, follow the directions, and you can't go wrong.

Replaced door latch