66514793N511 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...

Turned off power to the dishwasher. Removed the front panel via the screws on the inner wall of the door. Lifted and pulled out the front panel. Disconnected cable connections to fully remove the front panel. Pressed down on the latches to the left and right side of the door latch. Pulled out the door latch. Put in new door latch until it clicked into place. Reattached cable connections. Put the front panel back on with the screws. Turned back on power to the dishwasher.

Pulled off old seal. Pressed into groove the new door seal. No parts required.

Two of the four small nylon/plastic tabs on the adjusters that support the top rack on the rack slides, broke off (one on each side).

Before the new parts arrived, I printed the limited (but definitely helpful) instructions that were available and familiarized myself with the adjuster assemblies.

As practice, I took one adjuster assembly apart making notes of any "gotchas." The main gotcha I found is that the nylon/plastic parts are easy to break (obviously) as prying is involved during removal and replacement. It took me about 20 to 25 minutes to take one side apart and about 10 minutes to put it back together again.

When the new parts arrived, I was able to do the first side in about 10 minutes (removal and replacement), and the second side in about 5 minutes, all because I had printed the instructions, familiarized myself, and practiced. I hope this helps.

Pull the old seal out and push the new seal in. Done. Easy. The only issue is the door is still leaking and I have to replace the seal and the plate that goes across the bottom of the door.

Order both this seal and the seal for the bottom of the door at the same time.

Gently pull the old door seal out of it's track observing the orientation of the seal and the amount of extra seal at the ends of the seal grove/track..
Start installing the seal on one side leaving about the same amount of extra seal as original seal before removal.
Be sure the seals orientation is the same as the seal that was removed.
Carefully pressing the seal into the grove/track designed to hold the seal. Be careful to fully seat the seal into the grove/track.
The corners will be a little tricky, but carefully press and seat the new door seal all the way around. There should be a little extra seal after you get to the end of the grove/track.
Good luck, the new door seal solved my water leak.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

The rubber door seal was easy after watching the video. I key point however is that you do have to stretch the seal just a little bit. The video says not to. If you don't like I didn't originally, the seal will only extend from one side to the other without about an inch excess that folds on the bottom of each side. The door still leaked a little without the excess folded on each side. I did one side at a time and pulled out the new seal along the side before curving to the top, and just stretch it slightly to allow the excess. This stopped the leak.

The lower door seal was ok to do. The most important step there is to remember how the front door panel is installed. Taking pictures before and during removal may help. It is awkward to do by yourself, but can be done. I found that putting a balled-up towel at the top of the door helps when trying to reinstall the front panel.

At first I thought I needed a new bottom rack for my dishwasher. Out of curiosity, I watched the installation video and realized that the Tine Row installed separately and that was the only part I needed. I am appreciative of being able to access that video and the money I saved. Installation took seconds to complete.

Removed old housing parts and replaced them with the new parts I ordered. Very easy

Great fit. take out old one and drop in new one. Piece of Cake.

Popped damaged/worn wheel assembly off, snapped new ones in. Easy peasy

I did a Youtube search and discovered there were a couple that showed the replacement in detail. I watch the entire process once and then had my laptop beside the upper rack and paused the video after each step. That worked well

In looking at the parts catalog the part I needed didn’t state left or right side piece. I understood that the same part was used on both sides. Knowing the other side may fail also I ordered (2) pieces. Once they arrived I took apart the surrounding element using a screw driver to pop the enclosure apart carefully. I noted where each clip went and re-assembled the enclosure.

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.