66514759N512 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Actually, I found a video on Youtube with excellent instructions once you got past the really simple stuff like disconnecting power and water and drain.
I would recommend just finding a fairly similar model on Youtube and follow their directions. It was really easy.

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

The rubber door seal was easy after watching the video. I key point however is that you do have to stretch the seal just a little bit. The video says not to. If you don't like I didn't originally, the seal will only extend from one side to the other without about an inch excess that folds on the bottom of each side. The door still leaked a little without the excess folded on each side. I did one side at a time and pulled out the new seal along the side before curving to the top, and just stretch it slightly to allow the excess. This stopped the leak.

The lower door seal was ok to do. The most important step there is to remember how the front door panel is installed. Taking pictures before and during removal may help. It is awkward to do by yourself, but can be done. I found that putting a balled-up towel at the top of the door helps when trying to reinstall the front panel.

First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.

Gently pull the old door seal out of it's track observing the orientation of the seal and the amount of extra seal at the ends of the seal grove/track..
Start installing the seal on one side leaving about the same amount of extra seal as original seal before removal.
Be sure the seals orientation is the same as the seal that was removed.
Carefully pressing the seal into the grove/track designed to hold the seal. Be careful to fully seat the seal into the grove/track.
The corners will be a little tricky, but carefully press and seat the new door seal all the way around. There should be a little extra seal after you get to the end of the grove/track.
Good luck, the new door seal solved my water leak.

Pull the old seal out and push the new seal in. Done. Easy. The only issue is the door is still leaking and I have to replace the seal and the plate that goes across the bottom of the door.

Order both this seal and the seal for the bottom of the door at the same time.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Snap in the missing track stop and twist snap the middle spray arm. That simple.

I read how other people had the same problem, I checked everything that could possibly cause this. I then believed I knew what was wrong. I ordered a new arm. It was unbelievable how easy it was to replace.it. It took less time than a minute. . Turn the nut holding the arm counter clockwise to remove the arm. To replace turn the nut clockwise I now have a working dishwasher. It is not necessary to remove the dish rack.

My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...

Popped damaged/worn wheel assembly off, snapped new ones in. Easy peasy

Due to the way I installed the appliance originally it was not necessary to disconnect supply water nor the drain connections. When the cord broke the spring came out of the point of connection to the appliance. It some "finagelling" to reattach the spring.After some "select vocabulary" it hooked into the correct spot and the rest was history.

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.

I followed the wonderful videos provided with the part and fixed the problem easily! I suggest making a separate instructional video on how to get the dishwasher out of the housing.

There were no instructions with the kit so I went online and watched a How-to video so I could fix it. However, the new white wheels were too big so I had to use the wheels from the old rack.