66513204N413 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

The replacement kit came with no instructions in the box, so I found the instructional video online. This video pointed me in the right direction so I could take it the rest of the way myself.

Here is the link to the instructional video i used
https://www.partselect.com/PS10065979-Whirlpool-W10712395-Upper-Rack-Adjuster-Kit-White-Wheels-Left-and-Right-Sides.htm

Even though I purchased the end cap pieces for the roller stops, I was able to reuse the original pieces so these are to be keep for spare if required.

This was a very cost effective repair instead of replacing the entire rack assembly.

NOTE: The original Wheel bracket was a molded plastic piece, but the replacement is Stainless Steel. This had no impact on the functionality, but did add a small amount of noise during the wash cycle. My belief is this is the water hitting the steel vs. hitting the plastic.

Following a utube video made it easy. Removed the outer cover of the door to expose latch. Two screws remove the latch, pay attention to how it was positioned and put the new one on and then replace the panel. But first turn off the electricity to the unit at the fuse box.

The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process

I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.

All I had to do is lay the shield over the top and sides and used a couple of clips to hold in place as it was slid under the counter top. It couldn’t have been easier.We had searched everywhere for this replacement shield and parts select was the the only ones that had it. Very good service and fast delivery,

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.

What I needed were simple clips to lock in the wheels. I ended up getting a kit that required replacement of the roller tracts on both sides of the upper rack. The instructions were terrible. The repair took far more time than it should have. Once one side was fixed it was easy to fix the other side. By then I had worked my way around the muddled instructions.

After bailing out the unit, filled filter hole with a moderate amount of Dawn dish washing detergent. Ran dishwasher twice to remove all Dawn from the unit. Had to bailout the water (and suds) from the washer both times. After the dishwasher finally drained I inserted the new filter..

First I removed everything off of the bottom of the dishwasher. Then I removed the main center piece that everything mounts to. Then I reinstalled the new center piece with the help of some evoo cooking spray (extra virgin olive oil) I sprayed it on the rubber seal to aid in getting that center piece installed without a battle. Then I reinstalled everything else in the reverse order that I removed it. The evoo cooking spray works wonders for more than just cooking !!!

repair went smooth for the grommet. suggest a small of vasoline to ease installation of grommet

I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.

placed sprayer arm in position and twisted it into position, about a 1/4 turn, snaps into place. total of 15 seconds!

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!