65715755791 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

So my dishwasher is 20 some years old. Woke up in the morning to smell burning plastic and the dishwasher never moving to the next part in the cycle. I thought it was the high limit, then the cycling thermostat(because cycling you'd think it was cycling wrong). Nope. It was working fine. I used a multimeter to test the high limit(ohm reading will be closed at room temp) and for the cycling(will be open at room temp, so use a multimeter with alligator clips and a lighter to trigger it to close). All of my existing parts were fine. So I went to the timer and tested with alligator clips, each part that connected during the timing cycle. Sure enough. On the rinse and pump water out part, the contact point wasnt connecting due to corrosion and a bent prong. So I rebent it and cleaned all the contact points. All you need to do on these old washers is pull out the timer and pull off the thin plastic "sheild" over the thing. Guess what. I have a working dishwasher after having done the impossible and fixed my timer. So for those who have a dish washer that won't advance, but you can hear your timer advancing with the clicks, this is your problem. Saved myself an unknown amount of money because they don't make my timer anymore.

Both springs (8066018 and 3368999) were replaced as recommended in your troubleshooting guide, but did not resolve the problem. Finally the Dual Motor, 3374501, was replaced. During the above, the plastic face of the door fell off, which created a nuisance task before proceeding to fix the original problem. However, while replacing the motor, I realized the purpose of the two, T-shaped studs sticking out of the motor. It is absolutely necessary that these sit inside the slots which engages the sliding plastic cover, which is spring loaded, in order to engage the release of the soap dispenser door. It was truly a learning experience, but I got it done.

Swapped out the old upper dish rack with a new one. A video made the change simple.

Removed plastic wing-nut. install new bushing.

The door seal was easy. In less than 15 minutes I peeled the old one off and installed the new one. Also the new seal arrived in 2 days. In replacing the seal I noticed a screw laying in the bottom of the dishwasher. As I removed the lower washing arm which was real easy I noticed that the plastic bearing for the lower arm was no good. Late Thursday evening I went on line and ordered the bearing, and to my surprise it was delivered to my house on Saturday. In 15 minutes I had the bearing installed and we were back in business. I'm just amazed at how easy your web site is to use, and the promptness of the parts delivery. You guys are great.

the plastic pin that retains the spring has a head on one end that hits a plastic stop on the door to keep it from coming out. I used a small grinder and made a flat spot on the head diameter to make it easy to slide out. This is easier than trying to pry the door off the pin at the two retaing snaps. I was conderned these pin retainer clips were brittle and would break off.
Once the pin is slid out, it is a matter to hold the new spring holes in line with the pin. rotate pin so flat side you ground is turned up, so pin will not move out that way. Tiij about an hour

I grabbed the lower right end of the gasket with my Leatherman Tool pliers and pulled out the old gasket.
I installed the new gasket. No cleaning was necessary.
It took less than five minutes. It now works like new.
I ordered the part with standard delivery and it was here in just a couple of days. Very easy fix.

The whole job took less than 5 minutes...no tools were needed The diagnosis was right on the money

Pulled out the old with needle nose pliers. Pushed in new door seal with fingers.

Snap the old lid off, remove the pin & spring & install new Pin & Spring. Very easy. Thanks To Parts Select got the right parts.

one screw held the switch in place and is located at the front left of the machine at the bottom access panel, the new part was exactly as the old, the wires pulled off easy and plugged in to the new with no problem, switch still makes a noise and did not fix the problem, my fault not yours. Timer is moving thru the cycle but machine does no run or water flow in.

It was a very simple repair. I removed the old door seal out of the track and installed the new seal.

Took off bottom plate (2 screws) and ran unit to ensure where leak is from....it appears to be the door seal. Pulled out old seal with fingers and replaced door seal, ensuring its properly "fitted"..ran unit, no leaks, put bottom plate back on

Took less than 5 minutes. Pried edge of old door seal out with a flathead screwdriver, then slowly pulled out old seal. Thoroughly cleaned area for new seal with rubbing alcohol, inserted new seal and trimmed the end to fit just right. Presto, no leaks whatsoever!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you