58714009100 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

It was easy to replace the latch. 4 screws to take the cover off... two star screws for the latch assy. and 4 wires. NOTE: be sure to kill the power to the washer

removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple

Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!

Alighned the bracket and pushed in.

One Roller detatched and hit the heat coil and melted. Both of the Spring Linkages borke. It's was quite obvious they were made not to last long. My Husband did the repairs. Thank you for asking.

Be aware that there is a Child Lock Control on this dishwasher. To unlock the controls, press the POWER DRY OFF/NO HEAT DRY pad for 5 seconds until the CONTROLS light goes out.
If that doesn't work then read on.
I noticed the plastic handle was very loose in its opening. So I removed the screws along the interior edge of the door to expose the Door Latch Assembly. (Be careful. The two lowest screws- closest to the hinges- hold the metal door trim panel in place after sliding the panel over two clips near the screws. If you don't hold the door panel it may fall and get scratched. Put a bath towel or rug on the floor to avoid scratching it.)
After removing the phillips head screws, (and keeping track of the different size lengths in each position) I found the plastic handle broken at its fulcrum with the loose parts rattling around the inside of the door. The microswitches that tell the control panel the door is closed were not being pressed when the door closed because the broken handle was loose. I orderd the part I needed, got it in 5 days and reopened the door. The Door Latch Assembly is held in place with two medium size TORX head screws. Just remove each of the 4 electrical connectors one at a time from the old door latch assembly (that includes a new plastic handle) and attach to the new switch in the same order you remove them. After reassembling, I had the machine running in just a few minutes.

1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.

Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

Removed old arm from elment. then replaced with new one.

The latch on the soap dispenser got worn out over the past few years on the dishwasher. I tried just puting the detergent into it and running it as usual. The detergent was added Immediatley.. missing the proper timing that would normally dispense it properly. As a result the dishes were not coming out clean and lacked the shiny clean quality we were accustomed to . I ordered the right part, got it quickly and put it in..and were back to doing dishes and having them come out the right way...spotless and clean like they should.

10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!

After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.

Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

Removed eight screws holding front panel to door; placed blanket below it beforehand based on tip read in another person’s post. Removed two screws holding switch in place and then transferred four wire connectors one at a time. Replaced latch assembly with two screws. Replaced front door panel by reinstalling eight previously removed screws then did a load of dishes.

I was impressed with the user friendly format of your web site. I was able to quickly look up the part I needed. It arrived much faster than I expected after my order was placed.

I have already recommended the site to a friend needing parts for a Gibson dishwasher.

Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.