DW960UQW Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

The repair is fairly simple except that the diagram on the web site has an error - it reverses the positions of the long hinge pin and the short pin. I kept trying to do it as the diagram showed and of course it didn't work. Then I followed my instincts! The only other difficult part was figuring out which way to insert the spring but there are only a few options so trial and error was the simplest way.

Front Door Panel Insert: Remove the screws located in the metal strips surrounding the panel. This releases the old panel and allowes the old panel to be replaced with the new panel. Truly a piece of cake. Access Panel Insert: may need a small wrench to get at the screws to remove the entire access panel from the dishwasher unit. Then remove the screws in the metal strip surrounding the access panel to replace the panel insert. A little more work, but still rather easy.

First I had to unhook the electric, water line and drain hose. Then slide out the dishwasher. Took several days to find the drain hose - local stores only carried a 6 ft hose and I needed a 7 ft. Once I found it online, purchased it and recieved it I put it all back together and all is good.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Once I pulled the old broken drain valve lever lifter off the shaft, the shaft rotated counter clockwise. I then had to turn shaft back clockwise so there was enough room to slip the new part on. Needle nose pliers worked great to hold it in place while regular pliers in the other hand was used to turn the shaft.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

Sooooooooo, I ordered a new kick plate, it arrived promptly, tried installing it and it was being difficult. Removed plate above that and lined up new plate(kick plate) tried putting plate above it on and as when we installed the machine that upper plate was difficult. Removed upper plate to fcheck problem of installation and guess what? Stuck in the inside of the upper plate was the lower plate complete with sound insulation. Happy ending :-)

removed inner door panel. tested ythe Wax motor that operates the soap dispenser latch. It tested OK so I removed dispenser assembly. replaced the worn plastic parts and reinstalled the inner door panel.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.

Took out the pins that hold the detergent cup on, beginning with the side without the spring. Make sure you check how the side with the spring is installed before you take it out. If it's not done right when you put the new one on the lid won't spring open. Then installed the new detergent cup lid. Easy as pie and it would have cost $50 to just have someone come out to look at it and this cost $12. Can't beat that!

I used a torx driver to remove the seven screws holding the inside door panel in place. Flipping it over exposed the dispenser mechanism. There were two hex nut screws holding the whole assembly in place and two wires attached to the wax motor. As an afterthought I had ordered the sealing grommet for the latch, and as it turned out, the main problem with the sticking latch was that the grommet had worn out and allowed the hard soapy water to leak into the slider assembly and build up a hard crusty residue that had helped to ware out the old wax motor. After completely disassembling all of the parts, I scrubbed the residue out of the housing, replaced the slider, latch, spring, and grommet. Next I snapped the new wax motor into place and connected the two wires. The whole thing went back in place and the two hex screws went back to hold it all together. Finally, the seven torx screws went back to put the door back together. The whole repair went without a hitch.