JDB8700AWS2 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched the YouTube video I found in the link provided but PartSelect and followed the steps shown in the video. I replaced the two broken rack adjusters in about 20 minutes. I especially like the fact that PartSelect helped with the link provided in the email that acknowledged the part order. A great customer service. I’ve passed this fact on to my other friends who routinely DIY repair projects.

followed video instruction

Prepared by watching the video. Great instructions. Great.

Disassembled easily as per video. Removed the old latch and installed the new.

Began the reassembly and learned that after ten or more years the small plastic parts used to keep the dishwasher steady had slowly deteriorated to the point that I was breaking these necessary items faster than I was putting the appliance back together.

What was a half hour task became over two hours and the end result was for me to put my tools away and buy a new dishwasher the next day. I learned that if your appliance is over ten years old BUY A NEW ONE!

Great job by the people who make and sell the latch parts for you who own a dishwasher that is only a few years old.

Thank you Part Select.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.

Removed old part and replaced with new part

Remove the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher under the counter top. Remove dust cover plates at the bottom of the machine. The machine will have to be pulled out, so turn off the water to the machine. Usually under the kitchen sink. Disconnect water supply and push it out of the way so the dishwasher can be pulled out. Pull machine out enough so you have access to the door cables and springs. The door will have to be in the closed(up) position to do the repair. Usually only one side is broken. Start with the broken side and copy the working side when installing new parts. Then repair the working side. To get the working side apart just pull on the spring and disconnect it from the cable. Do the reverse to reinstall.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

repair went smooth for the grommet. suggest a small of vasoline to ease installation of grommet

Removed screws holding dishwasher in place. This dishwasher has one one the left and right side after you open the door hidden behind a plastic hole cover that you can pry out of place with a putty knife or some other thin tool. After this pull the dishwasher out about halfway and there are 4 screws on each side of the dishwasher (on the outside) that hold the top track assemble. Just unscrew these with the appropriate sized socket, remove the old track and screw in the new track. Super easy. Anybody can do this.

I removed and reinstalled the new gasket per the video instructions, but I found the corners to be much harder to install than indicated. I finally used a large, flat, dull screwdriver to carefully push the gasket all the way in, and used my fingers to feel whether the gasket was all the way in. I figured if the gasket wasn't all the way in, I would have a leak at the bottom of the door because the top of the gasket would stick out farther than the bottom, which is exactly what the original symptoms were. Perhaps I didn't need a new gasket? There was no visible damage. Pushing in the corners of the original gasket may have fixed it, but the new gasket worked perfectly! Thanks, Part Select!!

It was easy to remove the old parts by using a screwdriver to push in “tabs” that kept retainer clips in place. Once removed, it was a matter of easy assembly in reverse and then re-clip. It became clear that the problem was because a few tabs that click into the sliding track and worn to the point where they no longer retained a tight connection to the track causing the upper rack to tilt with weight to front or back. Sure, the parts are a bit pricey but not when compared to a repair visit or a new KitchenAid which otherwise was functioning perfectly.

Open the washer door, remove old rinse aid cap. Place new cap into designated spot, screw into place.

Pulled off old seal found center of new seal and pushed new seal into channel that old seal came out of starting at top middle underneath the latch