JDB6510AWD Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Joe from Titusville, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 99001797, WP99001791, WP6-914124, 912313
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Not getting clean dishes; filter kept getting cloged.
After removing parts, cleaned both upper and lower spray arms, blew out lead to the upper arm, and started to install the new parts.
Unfortunately, the Pump Housing Filter was still cold (freezing weather during shipment and left at the front door) and when I started to bend it into shape it broke in two places. So I tolk the old filter and some Lime away and slowly cleaned it with soft brush to open 95% of the holes.
Once ready it was installed along with the other new parts and the dishwasher works very well.
Simple homeowner repair.
Unfortunately, the Pump Housing Filter was still cold (freezing weather during shipment and left at the front door) and when I started to bend it into shape it broke in two places. So I tolk the old filter and some Lime away and slowly cleaned it with soft brush to open 95% of the holes.
Once ready it was installed along with the other new parts and the dishwasher works very well.
Simple homeowner repair.
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My racks were rusting, and a few tines had fallen off
First I did the top - getting the ends off the track is simple, flip the ends "open" like a book on each side, and remove the caps. Pull out the rack, replace with the new one and replace the caps. Bottom rack was easier once I figured out how to remove the spray tower. Grab it firmly and twist. Place it in the new rack, and roll it into the DW. I'm a fairly handy woman, and this was quite easy.
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- Customer:
- Cheryl from White Lake, MI
- Parts Used:
- 99001454
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Our 16 year old dishwasher's top rack lost most of the coated metal 'prongs' that separated/supported items on the upper rack.
With a straight edge screwdriver I carefully removed the plastic end caps on the rack support glider-shelves, replaced the old rack with the new rack, and then reattached the end caps.
I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.
I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.
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- Customer:
- paul from spring hill, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP99003317
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
the soap dispenser wouldn't open during cycle
I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.
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- Customer:
- Carol from Florissant, MO
- Parts Used:
- W10139223
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lower rack assembly rusting, needing replacement
Old rack assembly was rolled out , the plastic water disperser was twisted off of the old rack and placed on the new rack assembly. The new rack was rolled into place. Project complete.
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- Customer:
- JEFFREY from WAVELAND, MS
- Parts Used:
- WP99001443, 99001442, 99001426
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The Spray Diverter Assembly Came Off And Fell On The Heating Element And Melted.
First I installed the spray diverter,then I installed the discharge housing nut and tightened it down. Last I snapped on the spray diverter cap.
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- Customer:
- David from Wilmington, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP99001782
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
leaking drain hose
removed clamps with screwdriver from bottom of dishwasher and clamp from sink drain. I taped the new hose to the old one and pulled it through. worked perfect.
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- Customer:
- Paul from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP99003317
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Closer tab on the door broken.
All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.
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Broken door spring linage and lost spring
Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.
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- Customer:
- Steve from Boston, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP99002183
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Upper carriage wheels broke.
The only tricky part was fixed by reading another post on this website -- removing the plastic endcaps on the steel sliding brackets. This is a necessary step before replacing the wheels because the bracket needs to slide between two fully installed wheels.
To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.
The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.
To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.
The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.
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Rusted racks
Most difficult was figuring out how to release the top rack...just flip the end pieces to the side and out they come. Next was removing and reinserting the spray head in the bottom rack...just twist and take out then align and twist into place in the new rack.
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- Customer:
- Geoffrey from Shrewsbury, MA
- Parts Used:
- W10139223
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replace lower dish rack as orignal was corroded and the holders were rotted
Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP99001359
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
Tub was mysteriously slowly filling with water.
Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.
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- Customer:
- mary from sturgis, MI
- Parts Used:
- 99002043
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
I accientally busted the old rinse arm, while I was trying to put in the filterguard with bottom spray arm jet
I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.
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- Customer:
- Dennis from Liberty, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP99001359
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
Dishes were not getting totally clean.
I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:
1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.
The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!
1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.
The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!
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