JDB3910AWW Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.

First, I searched the repair help on this site to see what others did to repair their diswashers, and it looked easy, so I just followed the same instructions. First, I used a hex star key wrench to remove the screws that hold in the interior door cover. I disconnected the leads to the defective wax motor, reconnected the leads to the new motor and screwed the door back together. It took 15-20 minutes and was a piece of cake! My first appliance repair, and as a single woman and first-time homeowner, I was really impressed with this site! It gave me confidence to tackle more home repairs instead of calling for service and getting raked over the coals.

First unplug the unit. Open door. Take a special tool to remove all the screws (star shaped) around the edge of the door, and remove plastic panel where motor for detergent cup sits. Remove wires (two) from the motor. Remove wax motor by unsnapping motor from its cradle--comes out by moving the fingers holding it in. Push new motor into position, being sure the round pin sticking out at the end (on the left side) so that it sits in the groove made for it. Replace panel and screws, plug power cable back into its box. Close detergent cup door, turm on dishwasher, run through cycle, open door and check to see if detergent door opened up. If it did, then fill with dishes and wash.

Piece of cake. I panicked for a minute before I realized that there was a threaded brass 90 in the inlet valve. It looked like it was the wrong part for a minute. Once I got the 90 reinstalled in the new valve, I had it back together in 10 minutes. It seems to be working better.

Dish rack not same as original. No raised section on right for drop down ledge. Also the old rack had a section for wide rim bowls. New one is for plates only. Otherwise it is OK

We twisted the tower counter clockwise to remove from the old rack. It was a bit tight but came off quickly. Then inserting the tower into the new rack went very smoothly. That's all there was to it. The new rack did not have a place where I could attach the flip down shelf, but I rarely used it anyway. Love partselect. They helped me avoid buying a new dishwasher. Using Cascade pods, my dishwasher cleans like it is new and it is 25 years old!

turn off breaker
turn off water supply line
note wire color locations on notepad
disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers)
disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench)
disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp)
remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver)
remove ground jumper from old valve
remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers)
clean open end of pipe ell (file)
apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads
install pipe ell on new valve
reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation
reinstall ground jumper
install new valve assembly in dishwasher
reconnect hose and hose clamp
reconnect inlet line
reconnect spade lugs
turn on supply line, check for leaks
turn on breaker
start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow
done!

I took off the front bottom panel for an easy access. The valve is located on the left. Shut off water to the dishwasher. Remove the bracket that holds the valve. Remove hoses and 2 wires on the valve switch. Install new valve by revesing the steps above.

First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.

1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model)
2) Tipped it onto its back
3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver)
4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers)
5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring.
6) Removed broken link
7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door.
8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers.
9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.

This was really easy. I just took out the two screws securing the unit to the counter top and slid it out about 6 inches. Broken plastic spring linkage was obvious and easily accessible. I didn't know there was one on each side, I would probably have went ahead and ordered both and replaced them at the same time.

I pulled out the old rack, removed the spraying apparatus, attached it to the new rack and slid it into place.

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

I opened the dishwasher door, then used the Torx bit to remove the screws all around the edges of the door, and removed the inner part of the door. Then I removed the long metal plate at the part of the door farthest front (with the door open) and the large black plastic housing. The metal plate then became a useful tool to brace at an angle between the door and the body of the dishwasher. This not only held the spring-loaded door down, it also held the inner part of the door up against the body of the dishwasher.
One nut held the latch assembly to the door; I removed it with the nut driver.
On the latch assembly, there are two small plastic catches that keep the latch from sliding out, I held those out of the way with a blade screwdriver and slid the latch out.
The new latch then snapped into place, and I assembled the door again in the reverse sequence of disassembly.

I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!