JDB3610BWX Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove screws holding the inside of the door. Set lid aside. Pull out the old foam insulation. Clean the area. Replace with new foam insulation. Put door back together.

Took the handle off the old basket and put it on the new one and it was done.

I used a voltmeter to see if 120 volts was present at the right time in the cycle; it was, so the actuator was the likely culprit. I ordered one on a Monday afternoon about 2:30, and it appeared on my doorstep Tuesday, shortly after noon! It took less than 15 minutes to replace the actuator - removing the 7 Phillips-head screws, lifting the panel, popping out the upper actuator, removing the two wires, putting them on the new actuator, popping it in and putting the panel back on. Worked like a charm. Happy wife . . .

Had service man: stated I would need new motor/pump at $400 complete. I didn't like the interior of new dishwashers. Nothing to lose, so I verified that the motor was working; reviewed short PartSelect video. Ref: very helpful PartSelect assembly diagrams with parts list. THANKS PS! Removed two dish racks (top rack: extend fully and flip the roller-keeper clips. Pull rollers and rack-pins apart) Then I started taking the pump apart all the way down to the pump base (fits into tub with seal - did not replace that seal). Very intuitive - some parts are tight and must be encouraged to come apart; take care of seals and o-rings; take notes of sequence if necessary. Look for parts requiring replacement. Unscrew Spray Tower Lower Extension Nozzle and lift off Spray Arm and two lower spray arm seals - check seals for wear. Unscrew pencil-like Spray Arm Support Nut. Cause: I found a totally-clogged Pump Housing Filter, a bit of steel wool about the size of my thumb (same size as water supply opening in bottom), and small piece of broken glass. Cleaned all parts coated with lime; new Pump Housing Filter (could not clean adequately). Cleaned the screens underside of filter support (difficult) with brush and wire. Replaced o-rings for Wash Impeller and Drain Impeller as a matter of principle. Only alignment requirement is with bottom water supplly hole. Everything works like new now! Recommendation: clean Pump Housing Filter annually.

Never having repaired a dishwasher before, I disassembled everything I dared to until I found the root of the problem--part of the impeller had broken into several little bits. It wasn't apparent where the pieces came from, but the on-line diagrams and product photos helped. The broken impeller didn't want to come off the shaft, so I just crunched it up with a pair of vise grips. That seemed to be the gentlest solution for the pump bearings. The bits of impeller also took out the pump housing, which I could have ordered with the impeller had I been more observant. [insert four more days of washing by hand here] Inspect all parts for damage and clean out all stray chunks of food and plastic before reassembling!

Access to the soap dispenser is easy just screws. One of the two hex head screws that hold the mechanism assembly is buried by a lever and required a with a special offset wrench, I used bent needle nosed pliers to loosen and remove the screw quarter turn at a time. The blocking lever was a snap-in and maybe could have been removed with high force, not generally recommended for 14 year old plastic parts. In hindsight I would use a digital camera to record the mechanism, due to a absence of any detail cartoons of the assembly. The lever arm load spring required tweezers to remove and re-install.

Changing the valve only took about 30 minutes but reusing the fitting from the old valve I could not get it to stop leaking on the copper side of the fitting. I ended up going out and getting a new fitting and cutting the copper line to make a new connection. Then the problem was solved.

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.

Seemed like I was getting more food stuck on my dishes than cleaned off. Because I've had this problem before, I already knew how to remove the lower spray arm and take off the large white housing beneath the spray arm with a special nut driver (shaped like a star) to get at the parts inside. The white plastic filter that circles the lower sprayer center was totally clogged and bent out of shape and was preventing the spray arm from turning. The microfilters built into the large white housing part that I removed using the special driver were also clogged from years of use. I cleaned the microfilters by agitation in water with lots of vinegar, poked the calcium deposits out of the holes that were clogged in the lower spray arm, and put the whole thing back together with the new plastic filter I bought from this site. Works like new again.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

held spray arm to arm connector and replaced snap retainer, works like a new machine

I read the instructions given in one of your emails that said that to take off the center spray contraption, just turn to the right. To replace it on the new rack, put in place and turn to the left put the rack back in place in the dishwasher. It took less than 5 minutes after removing from the dishwasher.

watched the video instructions and followed them. ;Very easy.

Exchanged the new basket for the old one