JDB4950AWP Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Replacing bottom spray arm to fix leaky door:

To fix the leak in the door it is necessary to replace the bottom spray arm. This is because when the lower spary arm fails it gets small splits which, when spraying, send water up into the door vent and inside the door. It then leaks out the bottom of the door to drain.

1. Take out he bottom dish rack.

2. Locate plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) on lower spray arm (see parts diagram).

3. Remove plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) by hand - it twists counter clockwise to loosen.

4. There will be a small piece (jump-up nozzle) under the plastic nut (lower spary arm cap). Note how it was situated. Place it aside with the lower spary arm cap - you'll need them both during reassembly.

5. Pull off lower spary arm and filter guard (they are attached to each other).

6. Note how the lower spray arm was attached to the filter guard. The top and bottom of the lower spray arm are not the same.

7. Unsnap lower spray arm from filter guard by pulling up on one side and then the other to removed it from the plastic clips on the filter guard.

8. Install the new lower spray arm, by snaping it into the plastic retainers on the filter guard, one side at a time. Make sure you installed it with the correct side up.

9. Remove the two metal pieces (Radient Shield)from each end of the old lower spray arm and place the on the new lower spray arm. A small flat head screwdriver is useful to assist in removing them from the old arm.

9. Place the assembly (lower spray arm and filter guard) back onto the dishwasher and place the jump-up nozzle back into position.

8. Attach the palstic nut (lower spray arm cap) and tighten clockwise until secure. Don't over tighten.

9. Slide the bottom dish rack back into position.

This will fix the problem of the leaky door. I went ahead and replaced the upeer spray arm at the same time since it was a connvient time to do so.
If you wish to do so read on.

Replacing upper spray arm.

1. Remove the bottom dish rack.

2. You can remove the top dish rack, but you don't need to.

3. Examine where the upper spray arm is attached to the dishwasher. You will see three parts. The one on the spary arm center - toward the inside of the dishwasher is the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER. Next is the UPPER SPRAY ARM itself. Next, between the UPPERT SPRAY ARM and the body of the dishwasher is the SNAP OUTLET NUT.

4. Remove the SNAP OUTLET NUT by turing it counter clockwise (remember its upside down so you have to be looking up at it to determine which way is counter clockwise). I had to use a screwdriver blade and the palm of my hand to get it to loosen - I set the blade against one of the Knurls on the nut and gave it a tap with the palm of my hand).

5. The whole assembly will drop down. Remove it from the dishwasher. Note the way the UPPER SPRAY ARM is positioned; as the two sides are different.

6. With a pair of needle nose pliers compress the wings of the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER and remove it from the assembly. The assembly is now in three pieces.

7. Replace the old UPPER SPRAY ARM with the new one - again make sure it is in correctrly, as there is a top and bottom to the spary arm.

8. Insert the the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER into the new UPPER SPRAY ARM and into the SNAP OUTLET NUT. Place the assembly back into the dishwasher by tightening down the SNAP OUTLET NUT - turning it clockwise to tighten.

9. Replace the uppper dish rack if you removed it.

10. Repalce the lower dish rack.

The dishwasher is well engineered to perform this work.

Remove the bottom two panels to provide access and visibility to base of pump motor.

Locate plastic pump locking lever and push toward rear of DW to unlock pump from DW.

Inside the DW remove basketsand spray arms. Revove screws holding cover over pump motor and remove cover.

From below raise pump motor and support with block (piece of 2x4 worked well).

insde DW, removre old gasket, clean well around pump and botom of DW, install new gasket.

From below remove block to drop pump motro back into place, and re-tighten locking lever by pull toward you.

re-assemble inside componets, run through a rinse cycle to test for leaks and replace bottom panels.




I

I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

I removed the plastic retainer that held the lower spray arm in place. After removing the lower spray arm I was able to remove the 6 hex screws that held the cover over the filter screen and the discharge housing assembly. I was then able to remove the bolts that held the upper part of the discharge housing assembly, and replaced it with the new part that I received. The rest of the job was simply putting it back together.

Note: While repairing the broken part, I noticed a small leak under the machine around the float assembly. This was simple to fix. Remove the small lock ring on the bottom of the float. Pull the float out and clean the grease and soap scum out of it. Put it back in and attach the lock ring. No more leak and the water gets turned off when the float activates the switch. Something that everyone should check periodically.

Read the experiences here, very helpful. Bottom slides out first - really easy. The new part comes with rollers, you don't need to remove the old ones. Now the only problem, getting the sprayer off the bottom basket. Look carefullty, you must use a screwdriver to release one side of the sprayer, then it works off easily. Make sure you note the orientation of the base of the sprayer. Reverse steps above and you are done. New tray slides in. Our new tray was a bit wider than the old one so we needed to use a bit of pressure to "shrink" the back just a wee bit.

The upper is easy also. Since the rails are uneven, make sure you put the high rollers on the high side no matter what your wife told about how it is supposed to go in. The end caps snap inward and slide out of the rails. Easy once you know. The uneven rails are obvious once you notice. Total time was 45 minuts, 30 of which was figuring out how to get the sprayer off without damage.

Would be nice to know the factory recommendation for removing the sprayer.

I took the bottom cover off and pulled off 2 wires and removed 2 plastic nuts. I removed the old part and removed the O rings from the old part and installed the new heating element. Replaced the plastic nuts and the two wires. It was very simple. The hardest part was lying on my back to get to the wires and nuts.

After I ruled out a hose blockage I looked in the washer.

Took the washer assembly apart, pretty straight forward, used the parts diagrams on this site for help. Found the drain impellor was jammed with glass and had lost a lot of its fins.

Found exactly what I needed here. Had it back together in less than an hour, and it seems to be working like new.

Removed old gasket and foam strip. Cleaned area. Installed door gasket. Trimmed foam strip to fit and installed.

Leak has stopped!

Diagnosed potential problem from scematic diagram found at Parts Select .Com by entering model #. It was very likely the inlet water solenoid. Tear down was simple: Turn off water, disconnect water lines to and from solenoid, disconnect two electric terminals and remove part by removing two screws from dishwasher chasis. Before you buy the new solenoid, unscrew the water inlet elbow from solenoid and check the filter/screen inside the solenoid to make sure it isn't clogged. Assuming it's not, order the replacement part and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to use plumber's tape on screw connections to make sure there are no leaks..... Also for ease of acces, you'll need to turn the dishwaher down on it's front. Put towels down to cushion the front and keep the controls from contact with the floor. Good luck!!

Replaced upper and lower racks. The new lower rack has a design flaw: it has 3 wheels on each side, but should have 4 wheels on each side. When you pull out the bottom rack, the last set of wheels drop down into the open space where the door hinges to the cabinet, causing the dishes to bounce and shake around. Then when you push rack in, you have to lift it back up onto the tracks made for the wheels to roll on. You can't pull the bottom rack out far enough to access the back of the rack very well.

The replacement of the spring linkage was simple - the pulling out and pushing in of the under-the-counter dishwasher was the difficult and time-consuming part. The repair of the part took less than a minute.

The actual repair -
1. Hook the linkage to the dishwasher door
2. Hook the spring to the dishwasher base
3. Hook the spring to the linkage.

Getting the dishwasher out to be able to make the repair involved:
1. Unscrewing the base panel (6 screws had to be removed)
2. Unscrewing the dishwasher from the counter (two screws)
3. Turning off the water supply
4. Disconnecting the inline water supply from the dishwasher.

Once the part was replaced, I had to return the dishwasher to its original position, which meant performing the four steps (in reverse) used to pull out the dishwasher.

I removed the seven screws from the back panel of the door (special tool) and seperated the back panel from the front. My wife held the back up and I removed the two wax motors (detergent cup and rinse aid), which were clipped in place. I had turned off power to the dishwasher, so I simply unplugged each wax motor from the wiring harness, plugged the wax motors in and clipped them in place, making sure that the wiring harness was put back in the same place. Then I put the back panel back on the door, turned the power on and tested the repair. The dishwasher worked perfectly. Thanks to PartSelect for helping me solve the problem. The parts arrived in two days!

First I disconnected the dishwasher electric, water supply and discharge hoses. I then pulled the dishwasher out. After opening the door, I removed the retainer clip holding the upper wash arm, then the nut holding the top shower hose in place. Close the door and lean the dishwasher on its side to get at the underside where the other end of the hose is. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the top shower hose. Reassemble everything in reverse order. In hindsight, I didn't need to buy the new hose clamp or the tub top washer (I reused the originals). Good luck!

We simply removed the old gasket which was corroded, cleaned up the hard water buildup, and popped the new gasket into place. The problem was fixed! No more leak!

I took out both wax motors - tried switching the motors on the rinse dispenser and soap dispenser but they were both dead - new motors from partselect arrived fast - simple installation if you have the torx screwdriver for the door inner panel.