DP451 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove lower cover plate below door. Remove broken spring with needle nose pliers. Place plastic insert into upper spring loop and loop into hole on right spring hinge. Grab lower spring loop with needle nose pliers and insert through hole in lower frame base. Reinstall lower cover plate.

I removed four philips screws to remove the front door panel. Next I removed the screws holding in the detergent cup. Removed the two electrical wires from the cup release. Reveresed the process to install the new detergent cup.

removed retaining nut and replaced

Read thru the comments by others and matched them up with what I found (belt off the pulleys) when I took off the kickplate below the door. The old belt (20 years) had stretched about 1 1/2" compaired to the new replacement. Slip the new belt on the motor pulley and start it around the back of the pump pulley. Get your wife to hold your legs down so you can really twist/pull the pump pulley until the belt finally slips into place. No need to loosen the motor mounts if your wife can hold you down.

First removed the four screws to the lower front outside panel (the only tools needed to complete this job). Slide the belt under the drive motor, onto the motor pulley grove, then strecthed the belt onto the pulley for the pump that's on the power module (was qiite difficult, but with the directions supplied with the belt, was able to get it on) Lubricated the belt with silicon grease.

it was very easy to unscrew the broken nozzle and screw back the new one. !

After removing the cover to the motor assembly, I determined that the problem was that the old drive belt had broken. It probably was more than 20 years old. I originally thought that the size was no longer available because the old belt had stretched about two inches, but, after reading the repair stories on the PartsSelect Website, I decided to try the 25 3/8" belt. It worked great! After a few tries I was able to stretch the belt across the two pulleys without having to loosen anything. After applying the silicon grease, the dishwasher worked as good as new. The most difficult aspect of the job was having to work in such a small space. The most time-consuming part of the job was removing and then replacing the access cover, but the job overall was quite easy.

Removed the back - Saw the broken clips on the base of the dryer (the wires to the motor were pulling out because the motor was slipping).

Guessed that the parts were motor clips (no pix in the web site!)

Got the parts in post - they were identical except needed some rubber grips inside to hold tight (Used pieces of bike tire inner tube cut to fit for this.) Attached clips. Works fine!!

(Son is an engineer - he found the problem. Husband is a retired doctor - he couldn't!! but together they
supplied the muscle)
Sue (67 years old)

This dishwasher is over 20 years old and still works well. The door springs broke and the skematic shows 2 springs on each side. The spring kit only includes one spring for each side which is the primary spring. Removed the bottom access panel, shut off the water line and removed the water line. Removed the top screws which lock the dishwasher in the cabinet and pulled forward about 6 inches to fully expose the springs. Replaced the two big springs, one on each side and adjusted for maximum pull of door. The second small springs were not necessary. Pushed unit back into the cabinet, connected the water line and tested for water leaks. Cleaned and replaced access panel and the door is light as a feather.

First of all, ordering the parts from PartsSelect.com was very easy to do, I found and paid for the part in about 10 minutes with only the model number.

Removed the screws holding the old flange. Pulled it out and put the new one in its place. Installed the screws.

After I was finished I looked at the instructions. I'm glad I didn't look at them prior to starting. They were actually confusing.

I removed the access panel and it was right there. one screw - disconect the wires & it was out. then right back in - access panel on, and done.

I removed the 4 lower Phillips head screws on the lower inside of the door.(thanks to a tip from Robert) This removed the front panel allowing access to the detergent cup. I removed the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. Removed the old detergent cup and gasket. Installed the new cup and gasket and reinstalled the front panel. Amazingly easy. Now it's on to my stove. I'm hooked on your website

I replaced a broken power cord in my 15+yr old portable maytag dishwasher as it was much less than a brand new one. I also need to change the seal in the door but that will be another day. Anyway, after removing the four screws inside the door with the torque screw driver (t20, I think) , remove the two screws attaching the counter top to the unit and took that off. You get to them from under the top when the door is open. Then remove two screws from the back of the unit. You can now remove the two screws holding the casing in the front of the unit. I think that is all you need to remove the casing and counter top. You now will need to remove a shield from the back of the unit. You will now need to remove four screws holding the front panel that hides the power cord box and other wires. The power cord runs into a small box that you will need to use the small socket to remove the cover. Disconnect the wire nuts and ground wire from the unit. This will release the power cord from the wires of the unit. Using a pair of pliers, pinch the black thing that holds the power cord in place and pull it through the hole it is slid into. You will need to use some force to do this. It took longer to do this than it did to get to that point for me. You must do this again on the side of the unit where the power cord goes through and runs to the back of the unit. Pull the old power cord out of the unit through the holes in the front and side where the black things were holding it tightly. You have removed the old power cord and are ready to install a new cord. Remember to run the power cord through the compartment in the back that it is to be pulled from when you operatate the unit. This is also where the hose comes out from. After running the cord through the back of the unit, through the side hole and into the hole in the front you have to re-install the black things that hold the cord tight. Be sure the cord is not touching the motor. I attached the cord to other wires underneath using duck tape keeping it away from the motor. This will require the pliers again and a little force to get the black thing to slip through the holes and keep the cord tight. It seemed easier for me to put the black thing in before I attached the power cord to the unit matching the colors up with the wires from the unit. This would be a good time to make sure the wires are connected by plugging in the cord and listening for the unit to start. I put the controls on the dry setting to hear the dryer start. After verifying the unit was connected properly, I used the screws that I took out to attach the box over the wires, attach the front panel, attach the rear shield, attach the casing, and counter top, or any other parts you may have taken off. The dishwasher is one!!!

150 degrees for ten minutes provided enough flexibility to allow the belt to be rolled around the pulley. The machine has been used successfully since installation.

Had to reuse the original mounting bracket instead of the one that came with the replacement part (held on by 4 screws). Also had to turn each solenoid 90 degrees (a feature of the replacement part) so that I could reuse the original connecting wires. Dishwasher running very quietly now.