DW760W-CAN Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Popped off the plactic screen filter (3 screws). Droped in the new Spary Arm and put back together.

You guys are AWESOME! I ordered the part on a Wednesday afternoon and received it Thursday morning. So all and all I didn't even have to wash any dishes by hand.

The dripping water was coming from bottom right side of the door, almost directly beneath the detergent dispenser. Looking closely at the drips, I could see that they were coming from saturated insulation that is between the inner and outer door layers. I took the inside piece of the door apart and sure enough I could see water had been getting through the door latch and running down the inside of the door. I could see that the grommet around the door latch was cracked and brittle, so I replaced it and was pretty sure that would resolve the problem. But when I put the door all back together and did a test run, I had a leak even bigger than the first, but this leak appeared to be through the door seal at the bottom right. I then ordered a new door seal, which took only 5 minutes to replace and resolved the leak. I think the old door seal was too worn out at that spot and just by removing and replacing the inside door layer, it must have not made a good seal at that point. But I recommend starting with the door latch and grommet first, since that is a $4 part, and then proceeding with the door seal, a $43 part, only if necessary.

Removed dishwasher door liner and removed soap dish door latch assembly. Removed latch from assembly and replaced with new latch. Had trouble replacing assembly in correct sequence. Had to go on line and look at sequence picture to replace assembly correctly. Installed new gasket and replaced liner in door. The new gasket and latch solved my leak problem.
Thank you PartSelect

Ordered 3 parts first ..all came within two biz days..forgot the toe panel, called it was here the next day! The people that assisted me were wonderful! My husband did the repair. the dishwasher looks like new!!!!! I will order from Part Select again and again...extremley pleased. Now if only we could cover the Refrigerator in Black it would look like a whole new kitchen!

ordered new gasket, watched the video that was in the order conformation on how to install which was very easy to understand. the actual installation was right on the money. Thank-you.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

I tried tightening the latch (this had worked once before), but it was already tightened as far as it would go, and door still leaked. So I suspected the gasket, because the old one looked like it had lost its elasticity and was caked with crud. I tried cleaning it in place, but it still leaked. So I ordered a new gasket. However, it was back-ordered, so I tried removing the old gasket and cleaning it. It came out very easliy ( I had expected it to fall apart). Then I cleaned it good under running water, kneading the crud out of it. I also cleaned ou the groove, then I replaced it and that fixed the leak. So I didn't need the new gasket.

Changing the valve only took about 30 minutes but reusing the fitting from the old valve I could not get it to stop leaking on the copper side of the fitting. I ended up going out and getting a new fitting and cutting the copper line to make a new connection. Then the problem was solved.

I disconnected the dish washer and pulled it out. I laid it on its back, unplugged the electrical wires,removed the electrical magnet and pried the shaft seal out with a flat screwdriver. I gently packed the new seal into place with the flat screwdriver. I connected the electrical magnet and wires. I then installed the dish washer and ran it through a cycle. I am pleased to say the dish washer does not leak now.

From other comments on this site, I learned that 2 people fixed the problem with a new door gasket; 3 fixed the problem by replacing the dispenser latch. I tried the gasket and it helped some (obviously needed replacement anyway) but then learned that the rubber boot around the soap dispenser latch was torn into two pieces. Replaced it and good-to-go.

After checking out the mechanism, I realized that the wax motor which operates the dispenser was no longer working. I conatacted Part select and on the second day, on a Saturday, Fedex delivered the little wax motor. I simply separated the front panel with the inside panel with 7 screws and a 1/4 inch nut driver. I slipped out the old wax motor, unclipped the two wires and slipped in the new motor. Attached the wires and put the panels back togehter. Voila, the dispenser works perfectly.
Total time, 15 minutes.

When the (overpriced) replacement silverware basket arrived (rapidly, within a few days of my ordering) I was shocked and angry that the handle for the basket was not included--nor were instructions included as to how to remove the old handle from the old basket in order to fasten it to the new basket. Therefore, I spent a considerable amount of time trying to pry the handle off the old one, which was quite tricky: There were four slots which held the plastic "catches", and they had to be pushed out simultaneously. I had to fiddle with it for at least a half hour, trying various implements, until I found that I could push them out simultaneously by wedging butter knives into the slots and then easing the handle off. (I was careful to position myself so that I wouldn't slip and stab myself with the blunt butter knife.) After that, the handle snapped fairly easily into the new basket's slots.
In the end, while I was glad to be able to recycle the old handle, I wish that the basket and shelves were made more durably so they wouldn't have to be replaced, or that they could be replaced at a more reasonable price.

They just snapped in to place. Once I realized where they went. They are not the exact rollers needed but will do until I get the right ones. The rack will not come out as far as it should because of the difference. Other than that....easy.

I removed the four screws that hold the front kick plates on. Then, I removed the hose clamp (on the right side of the pump that secures the top shower hose assembly to the pump assembly. Then I pulled the dishwasher out, and pulled out the four black snap clips that hold the insulation in place. I then folded the insulation back and reached inside the dishwasher to disconnect the hose assembly. On the top spray arm is a nut that is easily removed without any special tools.
Be sure to save the rubber washer unless you order a new one along with the top shower hose.
Overall, an easy fix. Saved about $100.00 by doing it myself.

At first I tried putting the spring into the lid where the shorter extension of the spring fit tightly into the recessed part of the lid. (If you look at the lid where the hole is for the spring and pin, you see that there is what looks like the arm of the letter "Q".) This worked, but the lid would only open with limited force and would hang down when the dishwasher door was closed.
After looking at it again, I positioned the spring so that the shorter extension of the spring ran through the partially open portion of the spring hole. (Looking at the cup laying flat on the ground, you see that the bottom of the pin/spring hole has a slit in it). This allowed the spring to have greater tension and I have had no more problems. The lid opens with force and stays closed when the dishwasher door is closed (vertical).
This may be a little confusing as I do not know the technical terms for any of this stuff, but I just mess with stuff til it works or breaks, whichever comes first! haha