JDB2100AWS Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Dishwasher is in our summer cabin in Colorado so everything has to be drained for the winter. Not really sure whether this leak was freeze caused or that the valve was just old. Couldn't find a crack when I got the old one apart; might have been just an O ring needed. Anyway, just follow the video provided by this site for replacement of the valve; really easy. Biggest hassle for us was getting the dishwasher out (and back in) as it was wrapped in insulation which made the fit really tight. Thought I had everything I needed when I started but didn't have teflon tape which is needed for the brass fitting connecting the water supply to the valve (fitting is in your old valve and will be reused with the new one).

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

This site has a great video on how to do this. Just follow that.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

1. Shut off water supply

- Remove water line and drain hose if you need to. I was able to simply move the dishwasher forward some to do this repair without disconnecting

2. Remove access panels on the bottom.
3. Open the door
4. Remove Door Gasket carefully (do not stretch)
5. Use torque 20 driver to remove 6 screws that were under the gasket

- Some of the screws were rusted for me so I had to use kroil, a pick to clean out rust, and a hammer to help get the torque driver in enough to remove the screws. A local hardware store had replacements.

6. Use Phillips screwdriver to remove screws holding mounting brackets
7. Carefully move dishwasher out some (Careful if you have a copper water hose you may want to disconnect it)
8. Remove the strike if it is attached above the metal bar
9. Lift the metal bar and push down on the tub to make room to remove the old mounting brackets (slide them up, forward, and to the side)
10. Put new mounting brackets in place (put mounting bracket under bar, slide over into place)
11. Reverse the order at this point.

Be careful not to stretch the gasket. I soaked mine in vinegar for a bit and gently washed with dish soap to remove deposits.

Ensure to order part # PS1559543, which is the complete assembly although the diagram doesn't show this, and not PS2100626 which doesn't include the handle. The new assembly is a different style than the original therefore you should replace the complete assembly.

This was an easy fix. Remove the eleven torque screws on the door and separate the inner door panel enough to remove the old assembly. Remove the wire connections from the door switches, reconnect to the new assembly, and reinstall the assembly and inner door panel.

In order to clean the screen I had to remove the impeller. Removal required using a wheel puller. I backed off on the impeller screw but left it attached so that the wheel puller could pry against it. I then tightened the puller enough to free the impeller. I was then able to unscrew and remove the screen for cleaning.

Remove the water distributor, filtration plastic parts down to the base of the tub and clean of debris. Sometimes a small piece of plastic from the upper glass tray can break off and find its way into the bottom. Once its cleaned this section and be put back. Had to remove the unit from the cabinet and replace the drain motor and also cleaned the drain hose that runs to the garbage disposal. Most times this problem is caused by a blocked drain line or debris in the bottom of the tub constricting waster water from getting into the drain motor.

Took a while to figure out what had to be done. Brackets have to go under the metal frame which involves dropping the compartment. That is done by removing the screws which are hidden under the door gasket. Once I knew what had to be done it was simple.

Removed all the screws holding the inside panel of the door to the door itself. Lifted out the old broken door latch. Pulled the wire clips from the 2 switches located on either side if the door Latch assembly. This is a bit difficult. You have to keep working the wire clips back & forth; Up & down until the clips are free from the switch metal contacts. Reinstall the wire clips on the new door Latch assembly making sure you attach the black wires and white wires on the same side of the new latch assembly as on the one removed. Replace the new latch assembly aligning the mounting holes on the door with the new latch holes. Replace the inside panel aligning the holes and replace the screws. The screws were the star head type so you need a special driver bit. I used the box the latch came in the prop up the inside door panel while I worked.

Removed ~12 screws holding the inside liner onto the door. Pulled off the two connectors (one with black and one with white wires). Replace the handle and latch mechanism. Redid connections and replaced screws. Viola. (Be sure to buy BOTH the handle and latch mechanism- I don't see how you could easily install the handle on the mechanism myself, and what broken in my case was the black handle).

took out the old basket and put in the new one which required no tools

First I removed the screws from the inside of the door exposing the latch assembly. Removed the old part and installed the new assembly. Don't screw it on to the door untill the cover is on again.
First I ordered only the latch without the handle. Found after opening it up the handle was broken on the inside so had to order the assembly. It's a piece of cake to install. If you're having touble opening the door don't think because the handle looks ok from the outside it's not broken.. probably is. Partselect.com is the greatest company to deal with. I'd recommend them to anyone and have.
Sam

Easy! Unscrewed panel, took off old latch, put on new. Took about five minutes.

I removed the screws around the top and halfway down the sides of the inside of the door. I found that you dont have to remove all 10 screws to access the assembly. Reach in and pulled out the assembly, there was enough slack to pull it out above the door. Pull the connectors off and slide the new ones on. Set the new assembly back in place, insert the 2 top screws first, and then the rest. That was it...very simple to change.