JDB1090AWW Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

I have done two repairs, and both times PartSelect.com came to the rescue! The first repair was a few years ago when the dishwasher would run but nothing got wet. It made all the right noises except the sound of water being thrown around, because no water was being pumped! This resulted from a cheap plastic "chopper" assembly that stripped and wouldn't drive the impeller. PartSelect sold me a solid metal replacement part for under $10 and that fixed the problem for several years.

Recently, we had a different problem where the dishwasher completely haulted and the wash motor wouldn't run. This was caused by a faulty impeller, another cheap plastic part. The wash impeller fragmented around the drive shaft to where it sat uneven and thus created too much resistance for the motor to drive it. I removed the impeller, superglued the plastic parts together so that I could then wrap them in copper wire (about 1mm diameter), and then I hot-glued over the copper wrapping to secure the entire thing and to help keep water out of it. I did this so that we could wash dishes while we waited for the new impeller. Well the new impeller came several days early and so far I have just been too lazy to go remove the makeshift part. I figure it will fail sooner or later and then I will install my new part which should give me at least 9 more years of trouble free washing!

Pull dishwasher about 1/2 out of cabinet. Remembered to turn off power just in time. Removed electrical leads. Hand removed nuts retaining the heating element. Installed new element - hand tightened nuts.

Removed all the screws holding the inside panel of the door to the door itself. Lifted out the old broken door latch. Pulled the wire clips from the 2 switches located on either side if the door Latch assembly. This is a bit difficult. You have to keep working the wire clips back & forth; Up & down until the clips are free from the switch metal contacts. Reinstall the wire clips on the new door Latch assembly making sure you attach the black wires and white wires on the same side of the new latch assembly as on the one removed. Replace the new latch assembly aligning the mounting holes on the door with the new latch holes. Replace the inside panel aligning the holes and replace the screws. The screws were the star head type so you need a special driver bit. I used the box the latch came in the prop up the inside door panel while I worked.

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

Dishwasher is in our summer cabin in Colorado so everything has to be drained for the winter. Not really sure whether this leak was freeze caused or that the valve was just old. Couldn't find a crack when I got the old one apart; might have been just an O ring needed. Anyway, just follow the video provided by this site for replacement of the valve; really easy. Biggest hassle for us was getting the dishwasher out (and back in) as it was wrapped in insulation which made the fit really tight. Thought I had everything I needed when I started but didn't have teflon tape which is needed for the brass fitting connecting the water supply to the valve (fitting is in your old valve and will be reused with the new one).

1. Shut off water supply

- Remove water line and drain hose if you need to. I was able to simply move the dishwasher forward some to do this repair without disconnecting

2. Remove access panels on the bottom.
3. Open the door
4. Remove Door Gasket carefully (do not stretch)
5. Use torque 20 driver to remove 6 screws that were under the gasket

- Some of the screws were rusted for me so I had to use kroil, a pick to clean out rust, and a hammer to help get the torque driver in enough to remove the screws. A local hardware store had replacements.

6. Use Phillips screwdriver to remove screws holding mounting brackets
7. Carefully move dishwasher out some (Careful if you have a copper water hose you may want to disconnect it)
8. Remove the strike if it is attached above the metal bar
9. Lift the metal bar and push down on the tub to make room to remove the old mounting brackets (slide them up, forward, and to the side)
10. Put new mounting brackets in place (put mounting bracket under bar, slide over into place)
11. Reverse the order at this point.

Be careful not to stretch the gasket. I soaked mine in vinegar for a bit and gently washed with dish soap to remove deposits.

Took a while to figure out what had to be done. Brackets have to go under the metal frame which involves dropping the compartment. That is done by removing the screws which are hidden under the door gasket. Once I knew what had to be done it was simple.

Remove the water distributor, filtration plastic parts down to the base of the tub and clean of debris. Sometimes a small piece of plastic from the upper glass tray can break off and find its way into the bottom. Once its cleaned this section and be put back. Had to remove the unit from the cabinet and replace the drain motor and also cleaned the drain hose that runs to the garbage disposal. Most times this problem is caused by a blocked drain line or debris in the bottom of the tub constricting waster water from getting into the drain motor.

The basket did not include the handle (something I didn't notice when I ordered it). I simply removed the handle from the old basket and placed it on the new basket.

Having utensils falling through was really getting old. This was $25 well spent.

Removed the handle from the old basket and put it onto the new basket. The new basket is great!

take handle off old basket put on new basket done

Remove the screws , opened door panel. Removed switch with latch and replaced with new parts. Replaced panel and screws. Install completed.

I'm telling this story for my husband who is a pretty handy guy--I watched him do the repair. I had had someone out to look at the dishwasher and they said it would be $284 to fix this one little thing because you couldn't buy the one little part separately, you had to buy a whole new motor. Since the dishwasher is old, it didn't make sense to invest this much in it--might as well buy a new one for that kind of money. My husband did some looking around and found the part on your site and installed it himself. So the cost was under $40. The dishwasher is now working better than it had been for a while.

Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.