DU451 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

followed the scematic on the wesbite that i used to i.d. the repair part needed. removed the front door outside cover (8 screws) removed the bi-metal switch (2 screws), did not need to replace the door latch or spring. replaced the switch and the front door cover and ran the dishwasher to test the new switch. worked fine and has been working fine.

I was not able to follow the instructions exactly since they called for stretching the belt around the back pulley with the left hand. For a woman that prooved too difficult so instead I attached the belt to the back pulley first and used 2 screw drivers (they are thin) to stretch the belt around the front pulley. It took considerable effort but I got it on!! The dishwasher now works. Praise God!!

I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

Had to loosen the drive motor enough to slip the belt around the pulleys. The only problem was the amount of space available to work in.

It was my first dishwasher belt and it was much tighter than I thought it was going to be. I was worried I was going to break it putting it on so I was a bit stumped, but finally got it on and its good as new.

1. Removed the four screws to remove the door front.
2. Removed the six screws to remove the detergent cup.
3. Replaced bimetal strip, cam, and spring. (simple task)
4. Replaced gasket and seal.
5. Replaced detergent cup.
6. Replaced door front.

Typically when the detergent is not being despensed during the wash cycle, the bi-metal switch is bad (they don't tend to last forever). I took the 4 lower screws out from the inside of the dishwasher door,, unscrewed the bi-metal switch, and screwed in the new switch. I also decided to replace the metal spring for the dish as well, which took the majority of the time. Once you get the idea of how that spring is wound in there, the install goes pretty quickly.

No problem at all. Belt slipped on very easily. Followed directions in the package.

The water inlet valve would not allow enough water to run effectively. To R & R the part only a phillips screwdriver, a smaller adjustable wrench and pliers are needed. Turn the water supply off, & disconnect the water supply. Remove 2 screws attached to the cabinet and remove the rubber fill hose with pliers to open the clamp. Remove the inlet fitting from the old part and place on the new valve, using teflon tape. Attach the new part to the cabinet wall then the water supply to the old, reused fitting (also with teflon). Obviously, turn power off and disconnect the 2 double leads before beginning and replace when done. A fairly simple job , and my miraculous Maytag keeps on going!!

I removed front bottom cover,found belt broken. I ordered part online on 10-23-09,part arrived on 10-24-09,amazing. I lossened the two bolts that hold the drive motor to the frame,slipped the new belt on and applied the supplied silicone grease. I then ran the two bolts in with a 3/8 wrench,put the cover back on. Everything works like new now. Great delivery and easy ordering system online. Immediatly called my neighbor and told him about partselect.com

I replaced the belt and door spring. Now it works perfectly, and the door doesn't drop with a bang.

Took off bottom cover. Put belt on center housing than put belt on moter pully.Rolled belt down onto center pully while turning pully clockwise. Popped right on.

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.