JDB3910AWB Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help

Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.

The repair was very involved, but from previous experience cleaning the dishwasher, it was worth not having to buy a new one. I removed all of the lower parts down to the motor shaft. That process is tricky, but if you do it methodically, and slowly, it is not too bad. The real problem wash the scum that was left behind by the soap used in the dishwasher. After removing all the parts, I ordered the parts I could not clean, and cleaned the parts I could. I figured out that the door was leaking because of the soap scum buildup on all the parts, causing the water level to raise faster than it could be pumped out. After I received the new parts, I simply put everything back together and it works better than ever now. I used the parts layout on your website to help in aiding me to put everything back correctly. I am very appreciative that I can get parts easily through your website, and not have to hire a "service technician" to come out and do the same thing, for the price of a new washer. Thanks!

I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Opened up the front of the dishwasher from the inside, unplugged the old circuit board along with the old LED assembly, plugged in the new one, screwed everything back down. Dishwasher works now.

1. Print out the "pump and motor" exploded diagram and label the numbered parts down to #11 (discharge housing assembly).

2. Unscrew the "lower spray arm cap" (#34) by hand (it just twists off), remove the "jump up nozzle" (#1), and lift the "lower spray arm" (#2) and filter guard" (#36) out together.

3. With a torx screw driver, remove the screws holding the "pump cover and secondary filter assembly" (#4), taking note how the assembly was positioned. Be careful not to lose the two plastic "lower spray arm seals".

4. Lift out the "pump housing filter" (#6) and "rinse arm assembly" (#7).

5. With a 5/16 wrench, remove the bolts holding the "discharge housing assembly" (#11). You will likely find a plastic disk just sitting there under the discharge housing assembly. This is the source of your problem. It is the lower plate that has worn loose from the rest of the assembly and the noise is from it being ground by the impeller below.

6. The simplest fix is to order a new "discharge housing assembly" along with gaskets #37 - O-ring (for "pump cover in step #3. Mine was missing.) and #38 - "upper discharge housing gasket. Three parts to order and save your exploded diagram for when you put it back together.

7. Remove the "discharge housing nut" at the top of the old discharge assembly, lift off the "wash arm support", and put both on the new discharge assembly.

8. Insert new seals where they belong and reassemble the dishwasher in reverse order.

Other parts used:
Discharge Housing Assembly (#11)
Impeller Assembly (Wash Impeller) (#14)
O-Ring (#37)
Upper Discharge Housing Gasket (#38)

Removed upper and lower washing baskets.

Pulled off Upper Spray Arm (#33). It pulls off easily by hand. No tools required. Replaced with new Upper Spray Arm (#33) and Snap Spray Retainer (#31).

Removed Large Spray Arm Cap(#34,)which has a right hand thread. This allowed me to take the Lower Spray Arm(#2)off.
Removed Filter Guard (#36).

Next I removed the 6 screws from the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4) with a Torx screwdriver. Removed Lower Spray Arm Seal(#3), Pump House Filter (#6)(which I cleaned), Assembly, Rinse Arm (#7) Jump Up Nozzle (#1). Unscrewed Discharge Housing Nut(#8) by hand. Removed Support, Wash Arm (#9). This allowed me to remove the three screws holding the Discharge Housing Assembly(#11)with a 5/16th nut driver. Next I removed the Impeller Screw (#12) with a 5/16th nut driver. You must hold the Impeller Assembly (#14) firmly while loosening the nut. Removed Impeller Assembly (#12) and Plate, Suction (#15). Cleaned out area of debris,lint, etc. Put back old Plate, Suction (#15) and replaced Impeller Assembly (#14) with new part. Replaced Upper Housing Gasket and Discharge Housing Assembly with new parts. Put back all parts in the reverse order I removed them replacing the O-Ring (#37) with a new part. This O-Ring goes in the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4).

After completely assembled it ran as good as new!

Located circuit breaker for dishwasher and turned off breaker to secure power going to unit. Removed water spray bar arm inside dishwasher basin by unscrewing center nut and unclipping tabs against arm. Removed sheet metal access panels on bottom front of unit. Removed two individual plug in wires to temperature thermister. Removed 4 conductor plug wiring going to motor. Removed ground wire going to motor frame. Located plastic handle which cam locks motor / pump assembly into place. Pulled handle down gently to unlock from detent and turned clockwise to release pressure on assembly. Removed motor / pump assembly from dishwasher enclosure. Installed all new parts purchased as listed above utilizing parts breakdown aquired from PartSelect.com. Reinstalled motor / pump assembly in reverse order as listed above. Tested and ran unit with no problems. Thank You PartSelect.com, Robert.

Since there are no nuts or anything else to remove on these racks, bending them into place is the only obvious way to go to fit them onto the existing racks. Taking out the old movable racks is the easy part - just take a pair of pliers and bend back the 'O' part of the movable rack where it goes over the pin on the big rack. To put on the replacement racks, I found that I had to bow the racks in the middle to make them fit. Simply pressuring them into place didn't have enough give. With a helper to hold the big rack steady, I could use 2 hand to bow and align the movable racks and snap them into place. You have to be careful not to bow to much or you could permanently bend the new parts. I broke one weld between the short pieces that go perpendicular to the long wires on the new rack by putting too much pressure on the long wires.

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time