GSD1200V02 Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

I removed the screws from inside door panel. Took door panel out. Noted the way the old gasket was placed, removed it and replaced with the new gasket. Replaced the door panel. Felt pretty proud of myself until I realized that the door lock wouldn't work when I was going to run it. I have now removed the door panel again and am trying to get the door lock lever to work.

Door seal was brittle and flat.
Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal.
Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots.
The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

Had to remove entire lower unit from dishwasher but it is a tight fit between the pump inlet flange and the floor.The next problem was to get the E clip off of the valve shaft. I knew the E clip had to be a straight fit when put back on the shaft so I had to straighten out before putting it back on the shaft after putting the new seal on the shaft correctly.Put the solonoid back on and made sure the valve shaft turned freely. Next fun was getting the pump unit back in place. Not easy (clearance) but got-er done!

With a flashlight under the dishwasher, I saw a thin stream of water coming from a hole in the flexible connection between the pump discharge and the bottom of the tub, called a “lower spray arm connector”. I removed the dishwasher from the counter (very easy) and laid it face down on several towels--a good idea because water would leak out from various cavities. The pump also came off easily—just a few screws and clamps. The hard part was removing the old connector, since it appeared to be stuck in place. So I cut it off with a hacksaw, with a fair amount of difficulty. What I didn’t know was that all I needed to do was twist the lower spray arm base inside the tub to release the connector. It was obvious once I cut out the old one. Assembly was easy and the leak is now gone.

Removed the corner baffles by lifting up and out. Cleaned the area and pushed new replacements in position.

Removed door seal by pulling on the end.
Press new seal in to the slot. Work in to slot a tree ound door.

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

removed both corner baffles, also door gasket was bad, all parts were easy to order and install, the customer service was excellant with all my questions and concerns to get the right part and the parts arrived in just two days, thank you

Removed the 7 screws from inner side of door; removed set screw from handle; removed inner door cover; pulled old part out; pushed new part in and Voila! Replaced all screws, no problem. Thanks for your great customer service!

researched the problem, listened to you tube, ordered the parts
and did the repair. Very easy to do, only took a few minutes.

Took out old one and put in the new one. Not hard at all. Thanks

Popped the wheel in-- just like that! everything fixed!

a P. S. --- right after I replaced the missing wheel, my wife found the original wheel which had come off and slipped under the kitchen cabinet.

That's OK. Now I have a good source of repair parts I didn't have last week!! (and a spare wheel in the process). Thanks Chas Field