HDA1200G20WW Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

The replacement of the motor and pump assembly went smoothly and without difficulty however this did not fix the problem. It then appeared that the inlet water valve was not operating properly, so this part was ordered and instlled, a very simple proceedure that could be done witrhout removving fthe dishwasher from its cabinet. -- Again failure to run -- the timer assembly and electronic panel were then removed and examined. The control panel had no visible defects, so the timer assemblyand its cover was removed and examined . Uing a variable power supply the drive motor for the timer was energized and tested. As the motor ran properly the electrical switching contacts were then carfully checked, it was discovered that one contact set was heavily pitted and burned. These contacts were carefully cleaned and pollished with 1000 grit sanding paper. The actuator leaves were examined and two sets were found to be slightly out of alignment. The leaves on these sets were bent slightly to insure they were in line with the rest of the leaf serts. It was then noted that the rotating leaf('s) actuator had a home position indicated by a molded depression at one location and the motor was energized using approximately 5 volts ( a nine volt battery could also be used as a poer supply) observing prolper polarity to run the rotator until the home position was established and the actuator rods paul dropped into this depression. The assembly was then replaced in the diswasher using care to make sure that the actuation arm and spring were positioned properly weith the arrow end of the arm located in the recesss of of the rotating timer disk use care in placing the assembly and do not lose the sping which attaches to a mounting post and the arm. You may want to take a picture of the spring and arm locations when you rwmove the timer assembly to properly re-assemble all components, the repaired unit was placed back in its cabinet and a full cycle run to establish proper operation. And unit checked ok! Some of these proceedures are not for the weak of heart. I am a retired engineer who has been repairing my own equipment since graduation. .

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

I went to your site and check all the diagrams and then read the postings from others. I turned off the electrical breaker then took off the lower cover of the dishwasher. After disconnecting the water and electricial connections I was able to remove the 2 screws holding the unit in place and it came right out. I turned the unit over and was able to just remove the old part and put the new part in place. The whole job took me about one hour but I had never worked on a dishwasher before. Your site made the repair very easy to do on my own.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

We bought a used dishwasher that appeared to be in good shape. After installing I ran it through its cycle. It seemed to work fine but after the wash cycle it would not pump out to drain. I found there was a solenoid that controlled the pump direction (drain or to the washer). It tested to see if it was getting power when it was supposed to pump to drain and it was. When I manually actuated the valve the dishwasher pumped out as it was supposed to. With power to the solenoid and the valve working as it should the only peice left was the solenoid. I ordered it from PartsSelect.com and it arrived in 2 days. Installation was only 2 screws and a spring and all now works great.
The on-line parts diagrams and fast shipping make PartsSelect the only choice when buying parts for my appliances.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

I replaced the drain solenoid which was about $35 dollars. It consisted of a couple of springs, a hanging bracket, a plastic part and couple of screws to fasten the bracket and the solenoid of course. My dishwasher now drains the water. Much easier fix than i thought it would be.

I had a problem where the GE dishwasher would randomly stall upon startup due to a dead spot in the motor which prevented it from energizing. I removed the dishwasher's bottom access panel to inspect it and found that not only was the motor dead but it had a sizable leak emanating from the pump seal. I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet area and turned it over to make it easier to replace the motor and pump assembly which only took a matter of minutes; the most difficult part of the repair being the reinstalling of the dishwasher. The replacement motor/pump assy was not only modified from the original parts but it is also much quieter than the original. I also have to commend PartSelect on their very speedy delivery which was only 2 days. All in all with a couple of minor modifications that was taken care of with the included parts the repair went very easy.

Turned off the electricity to the dishwasher,removed the old solenoid,and put the new one on(very easy),turned the electrical breaker back on.

Recieved universal parts f/ pump & mtr assy. sorted them out, picked the ones I needed to complete my repair. Installed new assy, checked operation and was completly done in about an hour.

My old bones needed a break, or I could have been done faster. All's well, and the dirty dishes are back getting cleaned via machine, and not us.

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.