HLD4000N10BB Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

I removed the plastic end caps by gently pushing and twisting them. Once the end caps were off the basket slid out. The old wheels were removed and the new ones clipped in very easily. I then slid the basket back into place and replaced the end caps. The most difficult part was removing the end caps. I was afraid that I would break them, but by being careful and not forcing the piece they easily came off.

I called your tech and she sent me a awesome video that made it so easy to fix on my own

Changed the main chip. the unit then started and continuously ran. Thought something was wrong with it. It is just a cycle of the dishwasher and when the pump quit running the dishwasher ran and operates. Saved me lots of money and time.

two screws, two minutes, all done

Replaced lower spray arm

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Replaced keypad electronics PC boards.

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

Very Easy! Lift old arm out and replaced it with the new one.

Replaced the plastic piece. Simple

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Took screws out that hold front panel on, unplugged wiring, changed soap dispenser, and put everything back together. Not a bad repair at all.