HDA2120Z07BB Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

I had a problem where the GE dishwasher would randomly stall upon startup due to a dead spot in the motor which prevented it from energizing. I removed the dishwasher's bottom access panel to inspect it and found that not only was the motor dead but it had a sizable leak emanating from the pump seal. I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet area and turned it over to make it easier to replace the motor and pump assembly which only took a matter of minutes; the most difficult part of the repair being the reinstalling of the dishwasher. The replacement motor/pump assy was not only modified from the original parts but it is also much quieter than the original. I also have to commend PartSelect on their very speedy delivery which was only 2 days. All in all with a couple of minor modifications that was taken care of with the included parts the repair went very easy.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one

Took off little white plastic pieces at end of rail. Old rack off and new rack on. End pieces in and railing tighten with pliers. Easy!!!

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

Opened package, removed cap and screwed it in place.

Identified solinoid responsible for the operation of the drain flapper valve had become damaged, possibly due to its coil shorting and overheating, the inside plastic insulation then melted and came up through the solinoid pin hole. I removed the tension spring holding the flapper drain valve shut, removed the eclip holding the white phenelic arm connected to the tension spring, removed the two screws mounting the solinoid assy. I threw out the bad solinoid. I then proceeded to install the replacement solinoid in reverse order of removal. The end. Works like a champ ! Thank you for your quick shipping response time. My wife is now once again happy. As you know, if my wife isnt happy, I sure wont be happy. :)

Removed the 6 screws and took off the inside pannel. Removed 2 screws that secured the timer.Unplugged old timer leads and put the new one in reverse sequence. Piece of cake.

I replaced the drain solenoid which was about $35 dollars. It consisted of a couple of springs, a hanging bracket, a plastic part and couple of screws to fasten the bracket and the solenoid of course. My dishwasher now drains the water. Much easier fix than i thought it would be.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

I took the inside of the door off of the dishwasher and disconnected the timer, ordered the new timer and with a couple of screws and the attachment of 3 wires I was back in business! Now my dishwasher is working better than ever!

Turn water off and unplug unit first. I remove the 2 retaining screws under counter, pulled out dishwasher. I laid it on it's side to get to pump, loosen up Hose clamps on inlet and outlet ports on pump. You may need a towel or rags to soak up a small amount of water from hoses and old pump. Removed the two hoses on the side, note the lowest one is the drain hose. Un plug all wire connections and loosen support bracket. Removed old pump and installed new one in reverse order. I had to use the 90* adapter hose and the white adapter for my drain hose.The kit contains all adapters and it all fits perfect. Reinstalled and tested unit worked great!!!

After checking to make sure the filter wasn't clogged I removed the faceplate and, poking around a bit realized that the solenoid that actuates the drain valve was jammed. Removing it was was simply a matter of removing a pin and two screws. I reattached the new part, the only difficult part was holding the part in place while reattaching a few springs. Closed it up and its working like a champ.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.