HDA900X-66BA Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks

Did the install a few days ago 4.25.11 and all went smoothly. The instructions that came with the kit were very straightforward and the diagrams were extremely helpful in locating brackets/hoses/connections. My dad thought he would just get down there and do it, but wasn't sure what to do. Using the directions with the kit, I had the motor and pump off in under 5 minutes. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS WITH THE KIT!

Some things to note:
- Get some towels/cups/bowls, we had some water leaking from the dishwasher and hoses.
- Be careful removing the dishwasher from the counters, go slow.


1. Shut off electricity
2. Shut off water. I just shut closed the line that went directly to the dishwasher.
3. Removed screws from bottom panel to expose motor and pump assembly.
4. Removed screws securing the dishwasher to the counters.
5. Slowly slid dishwasher from counter and rotated so door was facing the ground carefully to ensure wires/hoses were not pulled or crushed.
6. Removed screw from bottom of motor that was secured to the hanger.
7. Removed ground screw from bottom of motor.
8. Removed all wired connections from the motor and pump.
9. Loosened hose clamp securing the drain line and removed from motor.
10. Loosened 2x hose clamps securing the motor and pump assembly to dishwasher.
11. Ensured everything was clear and disconnected, and slowly removed motor and pump assembly from dishwasher.
12. Test fit new motor and pump assembly.
13. Reconnected 2x connections to the motor and pump.
14. Secured the ground wire to the motor and pump.
15. Slid motor and pump onto dishwasher and secured the 2x hose clamps.
16. Secured screw from the hanger cable to the motor and pump.
17. Reconnected water line to motor and pump, and tightened hose clamp.
18. Ensured all connections were made, hose clamps were tightened, and there were no extra connections.
19. Rotated dishwasher back onto feet.
20. Slowly slid dishwasher back into counters ensuring no cables or hoses were kinked or crushed.
21. Restored electricity and water to dishwasher, and then performed a quick test of one cycle to check for leeks.
22. Secured bottom panel and dishwasher to counters.
23. Enjoyed having a working dishwasher again!

It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!

To remove the upper rack guide end caps, pull the inside flange gently to the rear, then twist the cap out of the track. Then the rollers come out easily, and replacing them involves merely snapping them in place over a rack frame part. Piece of cake! Roll the rack back into the guides, and replace the end caps. No tools needed!

The new arm was slightly different then the old arm. The problem was how to remove the old arm. Decidef to use an adjustable wrench much like a spanner wrench. A strap rench could also be used. Once the old unit was removed, the new lower spray arm screwed right in place. The entire process from PartSelect was easy and took less that a week including a weekend. Will definately use them again.

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side.
The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models.
I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again.
It was not hard but took longer than predicted.
Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.

Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.

The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.

I removed a front access panel below the door and found a broken steel cable going to the spring assembly which helps lift the door. I ordered a replacement from PartSelect which arrived quickly. To fix the problem, all I had to do was attach one end of the cable to the springs, route the cable across a nylon wheel, and slip the eyelet end of the cable onto a mounting post. Then reattach the access panel and I was done. Problem fixed.

Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor).
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!

I took the inner door panel off as described by others on this website, cleaned out all the gunk left by 27 yrs of use, and replaced the door gasket and tub baffles. A Phillips-head screwdriver was required to remove the door panel, but no tools were required to replace any of the parts I ordered. I didn't find it necessary to soak the door gasket in warm water as it was pretty flexible right out of the package. I recommend stretching the gasket slightly while pressing it into the groove, particularly around corners, or it will end up being too short at the end. The rinse aid tank had also been leaking Jet-Dry for a long time, so I cleaned that mess up as well and tried to replace the tank. Unfortunately, the new tank did not fit my model of dishwasher even though this website and GE's stated that it did. The shaft on the tank that pokes through the inner door panel to the inside of the dishwasher was too short because >2 mm of it was taken up by a thick rubber washer and a hard plastic collar (fused to the shaft to hold the washer in place) that had not been part of my original rinse aid tank. PartSelect was very good about refunding me for the incorrectly identified rinse aid tank and stated that they would contact GE about correcting this error on their website as well. I therefore cleaned up my original rinse aid tank, rinsing out all Jet-Dry residue inside it, and put it back into the inner door panel. I researched this part and found that GE has redesigned it twice since my dishwasher was manufactured in 1985 -- my original part is no longer available anywhere. So, I will just not use Jet-Dry and will maybe upgrade to a dishwasher powder that includes rinse agent (e.g., Cascade Complete). Replacing the gasket and tub baffles and cleaning up my original rinse aid tank stopped the leak for less than the cost of a repairman's service call and diagnosis fees -- it would have cost me 3X more if he had provided the parts and done the repairs! Replacing my dishwasher was out of the question as they do not make them like they used to (i.e., no microchips or motherboards to fail in a few years) -- this is the first problem I've had with my dishwasher in 27 years! As a side note, I also learned from my research that my front door panel insert is reversible. I was able to remove a side trim piece, slide out the panel, and turn it over so the color is now white rather than the outdated almond. It's like I have a brand new dishwasher that is ready to go for another 27 years.

Pulled out the old seals paying particular attention to their orientation. Cleaned the mounting areas and installed the new seals by hand.

This unit is more than 20 years old and is working just fine. Part Select made it easy to find what I needed and the parts arrived in two days.

Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.