HDA2100N00CC Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

Quick and easy...a 7 yr old could have done it.

i first order the corner baffles and put them in. no change at all, still leaked terribly. the old baffles looked pretty good so i kept them. i then ordered the door gasket and the insert. i removed the old one, put in the new, and still no change. i thought perhaps the machine hadn't been used at all because it was like brand new inside, and previously owned by 'a little old lady'. i decided to load it up and run it on a regular wash, and have done that three times now. it drips a very small amount on the left corner but i'm quite happy that it decreased so much. I think perhaps the seal might be setting with the heat of the cycle because each time a load goes through it get less and less drips from that corner. The first order was sent by ups and they couldn't find where i lived so i actually had to go pick them up, but the second order was sent fedex and they had no problem finding my home, and i was very pleased with how fast my order came.

Replaced the solenoid assembly.

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.

I removed the plastic inner door liner, removed the timer assembly. Replaced both plastic parts, Detergent cup release arm and dispenser release timer lever. The most difficult part was reassembling the timer lever spring. Long nose pliers made it simple. Works like new.

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Took the back off/there were six phillips head screws. Took the protective cover off the Interlock Switches and found the problem. One of the buttons was jambed and would not move. I pulled the switch up and pulled the connecting wires. This took a little bit of doing as the connectors have been set for over 8 years. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. I reconnected the new switch and punched both switches and the washer started. It was an easy repair after that, putting everything back in reverse order.

Had to install a new door latch. The installation itself is really quite simple involving removing (separating) the inner door panel to access the latch assembly. The latch is removed by simple push through one slot with a screw driver and the new unit basically pops in through grooved slots. However, I did find it quite helpful to first (and during) review a YouTube video illustrating the replacement. Although it is largely a simple procedure, for the first-time "installer" there are still a few tricky nuances to be aware of.

Troubleshot and found that the solenoid had burnt up locking the drain door in closed position. I ordered solenoid, Note: I only received the solenoid. I used the old bracket and springs along with the piston arm for the solenoid. I had to break it free from the old solenoid. Once I got everything cleaned up and put together it took me about 10 minutes to install the solenoid. I manually tested mine prior to wiring back up to ensure proper movement and then tested to ensure that the piston arm did not pop out of the solenoid base.

I unscrewed the front of the door almost to the bottom hinges and removed the latch. Went on line and ordered a replacement. The replacement arrived in a couple days (yeh), was identical to the one I had removed. I could have used another hand but went ahead and replaced it myself. It worked perfectly and I screwed everything back in place. I'm a 73-year-old female, good at taking things apart but not always good at putting them back together but will try anything. Was elated that I could repair it and it actually worked. Great service from your company!

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

Attached is a link to a great youtube video, that shows the exact steps to take to do this job. I just follow the instructions and the repair was flawless.

I removed the old cap and put on the new cap.

unplugged old switch and installed new one. it took 5 minutes to do. 20.00 saved me 400.00 on a new washer.

I removed the broken stub of the old fill cap with a screw remover. This was the only part that wasn't easy. The new cap fit fine.