HDA2100N00CC Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

Unscrewed old one and installed the new one.

Ordered most likely part...water inlet valve.

1. Turn off water supply.
2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the
dishwasher.
3. Remove hose to supply valve.
4. Take electrical plug off old valve.
5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of
the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket.
6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the
inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the
rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher.
7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the
bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and
bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose.
8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet
hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip.
9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp
with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this
time.
10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose
connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick
plate.

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

I watched the video that came with email on part. Gave instructions on how to. Thank you !

Put on a new cap.

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

The part came in as ordered. After removing the dish rack, I loosened three 1/4" screws (two on the strainer basket and one at the base of the spray arm. I had to slide the rubber hose down and back to disconnect the base which I did by turning counter clockwise. The new one went in by reversing what I just described. Other than two of the screws being difficult to reach, everything worked fine.Thanks for your site.

My husband said it was easy. But the gasket didn't solve the problem. So we had to order another part. We had to order the little black stoppers that go in the hinge area. Still leaked so my husband took them back out and cleaned the area. Then put some kind of sealant in and replaced the black robber things. So far that worked.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.

I took the inside of door off to install both gasket and gasket insert. Much easier this way. Also it’s much easier to fish locking handle through the door if you extend the handle half way and put through opening when raising the door.

UNPACKED WHEELS AND CLIP. USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SQUEEZED WHEEL TIP TO INSERT IN WHEEL. REMOVED OLD WHEELS AND RETAINER BY HAND. INSTALLED NEW WHEELS INSTALLED AND NEW RETAINERS

Took screws out of door panel to get to the latch and replaced old latch with new one. Super easy

The instructions provided are very good if I had done before. My concern was getting the gasket to sit properly at the bottom where you cannot see. I removed the inside of the door (7 screws) and this made it easier to assure gasket sat properly in the track. may have cost an extra 15 minutes but worth it. If I do again I will take door apart again, however I think this is fixed and should not need attention again.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.