GDB742RJS1 Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

Be aware that there is a Child Lock Control on this dishwasher. To unlock the controls, press the POWER DRY OFF/NO HEAT DRY pad for 5 seconds until the CONTROLS light goes out.
If that doesn't work then read on.
I noticed the plastic handle was very loose in its opening. So I removed the screws along the interior edge of the door to expose the Door Latch Assembly. (Be careful. The two lowest screws- closest to the hinges- hold the metal door trim panel in place after sliding the panel over two clips near the screws. If you don't hold the door panel it may fall and get scratched. Put a bath towel or rug on the floor to avoid scratching it.)
After removing the phillips head screws, (and keeping track of the different size lengths in each position) I found the plastic handle broken at its fulcrum with the loose parts rattling around the inside of the door. The microswitches that tell the control panel the door is closed were not being pressed when the door closed because the broken handle was loose. I orderd the part I needed, got it in 5 days and reopened the door. The Door Latch Assembly is held in place with two medium size TORX head screws. Just remove each of the 4 electrical connectors one at a time from the old door latch assembly (that includes a new plastic handle) and attach to the new switch in the same order you remove them. After reassembling, I had the machine running in just a few minutes.

1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.

Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)

As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

Remove water supply, take off two screws, attach new part reconnect water supply.

The latch on the soap dispenser got worn out over the past few years on the dishwasher. I tried just puting the detergent into it and running it as usual. The detergent was added Immediatley.. missing the proper timing that would normally dispense it properly. As a result the dishes were not coming out clean and lacked the shiny clean quality we were accustomed to . I ordered the right part, got it quickly and put it in..and were back to doing dishes and having them come out the right way...spotless and clean like they should.

Electrolux part number PS1524955, lower spray arm.

Problem. Dishwasher was spraying water out the bottom of the door. The spray arm was damaged when the heat shield overheated, causing the shield to contact the heating element. This resulted in the spray arm melting, causing water to be sprayed out the small gap between the dishwasher door, and the dishwasher bottom pan.

Repair
Lower spray arm is easy to remove. Release the arm clips at the center of the spray arm. When the clips are released, lift and remove damaged arm. Replacement arm is attached by pressing down on the center of the spray arm. The new unit has smaller heat shields so it will be less prone to overheating.

Thanks for the fast shipping. Part was recieved in a few days. For just a few dollars, the handwashing is over.

I ordered the replacement racks to replace the rusted ones that had been in my original Fridigaire. I had to take the wheels off the old Upper Rack and attach them to the new upper rack, which was quite easy since they just simply came off by hand with a little bit of pressure. I also needed to take off the spray arm & spray arm funnel in order to attach them to the new Upper Rack assembly. I had to unscrew the spray arm funnel then unattach (without tools) the base of the spray arm from the upper rack. Then I could simply reattach the spray arm base by hand and re-screw on the spray arm funnel onto the base that had been attached to the new upper rack. I also had to take off the Shelf from the old rack and attach it to the new one (which was easily done with a little bit of hand pressure to unattach the Shelf from the old rack). All of this was much easier than I expected it to be, and much easier than I'm explaining I'm sure! I was able to do these rack switches without any tools which was great!

10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!

No repair, just replaced the lower rack. Your service is awesome. I received my shipment next day. Thank you so much. I will definitely use your service again.

After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.

First I removed the two screws that hold the lower front cover of the dishwasher to get under the dishwasher. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then opened the dishwasher door and removed the old element and replaced it with the new element. I closed the dishwasher door and reconnected the two wires making sure that I put the proper wire on the proper post. I then put the two screws back on the element to hold it in place Next I replaed the cover on the front and tested the dishwasher for heat by running it empty.

Removed eight screws holding front panel to door; placed blanket below it beforehand based on tip read in another person’s post. Removed two screws holding switch in place and then transferred four wire connectors one at a time. Replaced latch assembly with two screws. Replaced front door panel by reinstalling eight previously removed screws then did a load of dishes.

I was impressed with the user friendly format of your web site. I was able to quickly look up the part I needed. It arrived much faster than I expected after my order was placed.

I have already recommended the site to a friend needing parts for a Gibson dishwasher.

Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...