GDB755RJB0 Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

I unclipped the plastic pieces at the front of the rack. This was very easy. Then I removed the old rack. I then removed the water sprayer from the old rack and placed it on the new rack. This was simple and I unscrewed the water sprayer by hand and snapped out. Putting it on the new assembly was very easy. Then I placed the new rack on the two stainless steel sliders and refastened the plastic clips at the ends. It was no problem.

Ordered the parts, put into place and that was it...very easy...had to undo the upper rack spinner wash blade but was easy to remove and put back onto the new rack...

Removed damaged strike plate from dishwasher and screwed new part into place. Tested and dishwasher worked fine. Took less than 15 minutes to get the job done. Was very pleased with how fast the part was delivered.

VERY simple---unscrewed three screws on the broken part (the little nubs that held on the bottom spinner were broken off), screwed the new one back in, re-attached the spinner.

I was VERY pleased with the customer service and quick shipping (ordered on Sunday night, the part was delivered Wednesday morning). I would definitely recommend this site to anyone, and would use it again. Five Stars!!!!

I just did the repair just like the video suggests to fix it. I disconnected the power cord, shut off and took apart the water inlet line, and drain line. Unscrewed the top of the washer from the cabinet and pulled out the dishwasher. Tilted the washer to better get to the bottom and took off the connecting wires (red and white.) Unscrewed the brass nuts holding the heating element and removed the element from the machine. Took out the bottom sprayer arm. Replaced the element, replaced the brass nuts and connected the wires back up. Put the sprayer arm back in. Pushed the machine back into place and re-secured the top to the cabinet. Hooked all water, drain, and power lines back up and all was good again.

The Inlet valve was leaking. I removed the old valve in less than 30 min.Note: need bright flashlight! It could have been quicker but I had to lie on the floor and squeeze my big hands under the opening (kick panel). Once I got the two small bolts out, I was able to manipulate the valve out from under the dishwasher, then I carefully removed the two lines. I received the part in 5 days and installed it in 45 minutes. It could have been a faster installation, however I was not about to pull out the whole dishwasher. Again, I was able to manipulate the new valve back in & tighten then test everything.(note: need a bright flashlight to see underneath) I immediately ran a load of dishes and Presto! No leaks and runs like a Swiss watch!

I removed the kick panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. Then using a flashlight and a cross point screwdriver, I removed the thermostat from about the middle left. It requires a short screwdriver, but not quite as short as a stubby. I unplugged the wires, noting that one of them was a little burnt looking. The burnt looking connector was still okay. I then installed the new one, with the green dot on the thermostat having the slightly burnt looking connector. Then I ran a load of dishes and the dishwasher worked as it was supposed to. It has worked okay twice since then.

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Popped off the old spray arm ... INTENTIONALLY, and put new one in. Had to lift off small strainer to allow old arm to release! Be sure to turn arm until it clicks into place, return small strainer/clip, and you are in business!
Most trouble I had was getting this old bo
y up off the floor afterward.
Dished so much cleaner now!

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

It was super simple. I popped the clips that were holding the old spray arm on and then popped the new one in place.

1 Removed 2 screws to remove door panel so as to access back of dispenser.
2 Unplugged 2 color-coded wires attached to dispenser
3 Removed 6 screws attaching the dispenser.

Reversed these 3 steps to install new unit.

Easy. Don't even think of calling the repairman.

Pulled old gasket off with small hook. Replaced new gasket by pressing in with my fingers.

I read the instructions that others had posted and completed the repair in less than 5 minutes!