GDB755RJB0 Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

I took the bottom parts out. This can basically be done without tools. You need a phillips to unscrew 3 screws to remove the stem. Then easily replace with the new one. Putting the spiny washing part was kinda weird because I was afraid to break the nubs off again. I took the whole bottom carriage out so I could see better, pushed down kinda hard and twisted the right way (figure out which way needs to be twisted before hand by looking through the bottom of the stem).

First I shut off the power to the dishwasher from the breaker panel. Then I removed the five screws holding the plastic top panel to the door (on the frigidaire, there is no need to remove the entire stainless steel door panel). I removed each of the four wires from the old latch (pulling the wires off required some "oomph") one by one and plugged them into the corresponding position on the new one. I did this so I would be sure to have them in the right place. I used a torx screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the old latch. I then replaced the old latch with the new one, replaced the top panel of the door, turned the breaker back on and everything was as good as new! The whole operation took maybe 20 minutes. It couldn't have been easier. The only surprises were how difficult it was to pull the wires off and the fact that the screws holding the latch were torx head.

In future, when I need parts, I will definitely use PartSelect. I have gotten parts from other sources, and this is the first place where, along with the part, you get all this advice from other DIY'ers. It's an absolutely brilliant idea and a lot of help.

remove vanity panel
disconnect copper supply line from valve
remove valve mounting screws
rotate valve to access hose clamp
loosen clamp and slide up rubber tubing about 2 inches
pull hose off barbed fitting and remove old valve
reverse order with new valve

I closed on a house a few weeks back. You really don't notice issues with appliances until your living there....the walk through doesn't give you the time to really see anything hidden. Anyway - the dishwasher had appeared to be used to wash grease covered parts from a car so I pulled all the racks and filters out and placed the order for replacement parts. I saved hundreds in obtaining replacement parts verse buying a new machine - and I didn't have to sit around waiting for a repairman to do the work for me. I've made several purchases from PartSelect, and will probably making more in the near futre - Thanks!

took the door off after several failed attempts, which is easy to do - 2 scews. Then it was easier to find the channel the gasket fits into.

For all Frigidaire diswasher owners, after taking the door off, I realized it was the seal around the soap dispenser that was leaking, due to stripped screws, not the gasket. I rigged it with silicone caulk, but may have to replace that - looks easy, .

First I removed the bottom dish rack to gain access to the spray arm. I proceeded by pulling straight up on the bottom spray arm, it disconnected with gentle force. The replacement part was not identical, so I determined that it would work by inspecting hole patterns and heat shield configuration. Then I gently pushed the new spray arm onto the water supply tube making sure that the spray arm snapped into place. Due to extremely fast ground shipping (less than 20hrs from order to my door) the repair was done within 24 hrs! Boy...was my wife pleased!

Removed screws and put new bottom gasket in old one just fell out.

I disconnected the power to the machine. Removed the bottom access panel and screws holding the dishwaher in the cabinet opening so I could carefully slide the dishwasher out.
Taking note of the pump position at the bottom of the dishwasher I removed the two wire leads, screws and hoses(pliers). I installed the new part in the reverse order and was able to run the dishwasher for a cycle while it was out to make sure there were no leaks.
Dishwasher runs great and the dishes seem cleaner. Fingers crossed.
Thanks.

I foloowed the others who repared the same item. I really appreciated their help and input. The only thing I would add is when they said that you only have to remove the bottom 2 screws on the inside of the dishwasher door they are absolutely correct. But don't look on the very bottom of the door like I did. They are on the inside of the door, facing inside. The bottom screw on each side. Thanks for all the help.

Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"

Remove and replace the door gasket. Removed the 6 phillips head screws holding the top panel cover. This gives access to the latch assembly. Remove the two screw holding the latch in place. I removed the four wires one at a time with needle nose pliers and plugged them on the right spade of the new latch assembly. This assures getting them in the correct position. I then mounted the latch with the two screws and installed the cover with the 6 screws. Job done, piece of cake.

This was too easy. I pulled out the bottom rack, spread apart the two clips which are at the bottom of the spray arm with my fingers and pulled out the old broken spray arm. The damage was visible. Then I took the new spray arm ( which looked different but still fit nicely) and gently pushed it into place. Done!

The nut was split down one side, so I first tried to sauder the nut back together. Saudering never goes well for me anyway, but I couldn't get a good enough seal around the nut to make it fit tightly. Then I had to cut off the clear plastic shield to get down in there, just before realizing you could just pull the white wire firmly and it would come loose from the nut. All I had to do then was unscrew the original nut, and screw on the new nut. Then, luckily I had mistakenly ordered an extra clear plastic shield and could replace the one I had previously cut. Dishwasher now runs like a charm!

It is rather easy to repair. After you remove the screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the countertop you can slide the disherwasher out far enough to gain access to the hose. The hose pulls off after you slide the spring clips down the hose far enough so they no longer grab. Then simply reverse the order and you're done. Less than 30 minutes and you should no longer have to hand wash your dishes!

replaced with new lower rack, out with the old, in with the new! Shipping was great new part arrived in 2 days! Great service, and will use again for all parts needed in the future, and will tell everyone about this site! Thanks a bunch!