SP24D5KAGA Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

1) Soaked new gasket in hot water for about 15 minutes to make it more pliable. 2) Cleaned accumulated soap residue from gasket area. 3) Removed old gasket by pulling it from machine. 4) Installed new gasket starting at the top and aligning notch on gasket with center of top door latch. 5) Pressed gasket into place working from the top to the bottom. 6) Inspected and found about a half inch gap remained at bottom. 7) Cut a piece of the same size from the old gasket and pressed it in place to close the gap.

Isolated the leak and found the nut had split thereby allowing a loose seal and water penetration. Ordered 2 nuts just in case the other goes and the installation was easy. Unplug the unit, remove baseplate, remove screws under the countertop, and slide the unit out a bit. Use needlenode pliers to remove terminal connection and replaced nut. Reverse it for assembly. 3 minutes tops $6 later it is done. Easy money saved by a DIY.

I called an appliance store and they said to bring in the model number and a deposit and they would order it for us. Then, I decided to go to the Internet. I Googled Gibson Dishwahers and your page came up. I entered the requested information and ordered the gasket. In LESS THAN 24 HOURS it was delivered and in les than fifteen minutes, our son installed it. No more leaks! Thank you for the excellent service.

I recently bought a vacation home in New Hampshire, and had a very detailed home inspection performed. The dishwasher unit was checked out to be in fine shape. Before moving in, I had all the hardwood floors refinished, including the kitchen, and everything looked great. After moving in and using the dishwasher twice, it developed a major leak coming from the bottom of the unit. "Here goes more money that I don't have, to hire an appliance repairman to fix this leak!" I decided to take the bottom kick panel off the dishwasher to see where the leak was coming from. It was coming from the the connection of the heater element at the bottom of the dishwasher. I found a brass nut had been cracked and wouldn't stay tight any more. I ordered the replacement nut from Partselect, RECEIVED IT THE NEXT DAY!!!!! using regular ground shipping, and installed the new nut using a socket set, and tested the unit. No more leaks!! Partselect saved me at least $150.00 on a service call for a $3.50 part. I'm not the handiest guy around, but even this was easy!
I also scored big points with the wife on my handyman repair! Thanks Partselect!

Greg

There were 4 zip ties holding old silverware basket on to bottom rack snip them, remove basket install new basket with zip ties both ends 2 more in middle about 1-2” apart. Try to install ties about 1/2 way up on basket so it doesn’t get top heavy.

This site had good pics and descriptions of the gasket I needed, as well as a LOT of users instructions concerning installation. Ordered, came quickly. It was a little hard to push in the groove. (Maybe a little silicone lube on the gasket would help??) I also filled in the gap at the bottom with a small section of the old gasket, as suggested by (other) installers. Why not? Anyways, it took both hands to close the door the first 3-4 washes. Easy to open/close now. AND... no more leaks! Great price, too!

DISASSEMBLY
- Switch off circuit breaker for dishwasher.
- Remove lower front covers from washer to observe motor (for later steps) and to clean-up water.
- Remove top and bottom dishracks.
-You may want to take pics of the placement/orientation of components in the following steps as you disassemble them for reference during reassembly.
- Remove spray-arm base from pump housing.
- Remove and discard impeller— put a screwdriver in the impeller grooves to prevent it turning as you loosen the screw.
- Remove impeller, O-ring, and blade. Discard impeller and O-ring, but keep blade (I couldn’t find the O-ring; it had probably disintegrated).
- Remove pump housing, pump plate, and gasket.
- Use two flat-head screwdrivers on opposite sides of the rotor to pry it off the motor shaft. Be cautious not to damage the area around the motor shaft—wood can be used to protect the area and provide better leverage. If the rotor can’t be removed, a chisel or hacksaw can be used to split it before prying it up— be cautious of the motor shaft when splitting the rotor. Discard the rotor.
- Locate the upper seal, note its orientation (cup-side-down), remove it, and discard it (my upper seal was in the recess in the bottom of the rotor).
-Drive the shaft-key (small metal tab) out of the shaft groove using a hammer and flat-head screwdriver and discard it— the new rotor has a molded-in tab that will slide into the groove in place of the shaft-key.
- Remove ceramic ring from motor shaft and discard it (my leak was caused because the ceramic ring was broken in half).
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry loose the lower seal—before removing it from the shaft, note its orientation (wide-side-down). Be caution not to damage the area around the motor shaft—wood may again be used for protection and leverage.

CLEANING/PREP
- Clean shaft with wire brush, white vinegar, and a rag (you may not need the wire brush if the shaft is in good shape, but my motor shaft was heavily corroded/rusted and I needed to smooth it to prevent it damaging the seals). Clean groove in motor shaft with flat-head screwdriver and rag.
- Use a rag and white vinegar to clean motor shaft recess and pump housing seat. The bottom of the motor shaft recess must be clean and smooth for the lower seal to seat properly.
- Clean pump plate, gasket, blade, pump housing, and screws with white vinegar and a plastic-bristled brush.

ASSEMBLY
-Wet new rubber seals, new ceramic ring, and new rotor with water to help them slide into place.
-Refer to pics taken during disassembly as needed for the following steps.
- Place new lower seal (wide-side-down) over motor shaft in bottom of recess.
-Push new upper seal (cup-side-down) into recessed area in the bottom of the new rotor.
-Push new ceramic ring into upper seal (cup-side) in bottom of rotor.
-Align groove on motor shaft with tab in rotor (a mark on the outside of the rotor shows the tab’s location) and seat rotor on the motor shaft by hand. Verify that the motor turns when the rotor is turned by hand. If not, remove the rotor and reposition it so that its tab slides into the groove in the motor shaft.
-Place gasket, pump plate, and pump housing in position. Start pump housing screws, but leave them loose.
- Place blade and new O-ring on rotor.
- Place new impeller on rotor and insert screw. Tighten moderately — overtightening could cause leaks. Hold the impeller by hand to prevent it turning as the screw is tightened— do not use a screwdriver to prevent the impeller turning.
- Finish tightening pump housing screws.
- Seat spray-arm base on pump housing and insert/tighten its mounting screws.
- Switch on circuit breaker for dishwasher.
- Start washer and watch motor to verify that shaft seal is not leaking. Run a full cycle to rinse the new parts and remove debris and vinegar residue. Continue to observe motor shaft area for leaks during cycle.
-Replace lower front covers.

The gasket was easy to remove and easy to replace. Our story is interesting because upon calling SEARS to find the replacement part we were told they no longer make it because the dishwasher is too old (approx. 15 years). It works wonderfully so I was annoyed to think we'd have to buy a new one just because of a bad gasket. My husband has a knack for finding things online and eventually discovered your site as well as the original drawing of the machine to find the part number and lo a behold, it fits perfectly. No more leaks! Sweet

At first remove the lower rack to give more room for you to lean over the inside of the dishwasher then remove the old gasket tub 90 inches long make sure that you know which side goes where, so that it will be easy to put the new one. Then press the gasket firmly on the side.Now you can start your dishwasher with no leak and saves you a lot of money for buying a new one.

All you have to do power down the unit, then disconnect the power connections at the element and remove the old nuts and replace them with the new ones and tighten. Don't tighten too much, the element has a rubber seal that just needs the nut to snug it up.

Removed the old rollers with with screw driver. Used the original screws and washers, and reinstalled the new rollers. Had been having trouble with top dish rack metal slides popping out of the old rollers. I not that the replacement rollers are slightly larger and have slightly deeper groves for the slides. Have not had the new rollers installed long enough to see if they remedied the problem. Will know in a few weeks time. So far, so good.

The repair was simple. When the part comes, you may need a hairdryer to heat up the plastic a bit to get any kinks that may have happened during packaging or shipping, very easy 5 minutes. Removed the old gasket by hand, very easy, 1 minute. You will need to clean out the track that the gasket sits in. Mine had years of black gunk inside of it. You will need qtips or a small screwdriver with some tissues or papertowels, easy but took 15 minutes to clean out properly. Installed new gasket in the track, start at the top middle, there is a notch on the gasket so you know where the middle is. Installed by hand, just push bottom edge into the clean track, easy 5 minutes. Ran the dishwasher with no leaks. Very pleased with the result and how easy the gasket was to remove and install.

Removed bottom cover , PLACED TAPE ON SHARP EDGES OF ALL METAL!!!!!!! Pulled electrical connections off with long reach pliers , removed old split nut ,it was loose !!!!!! . Placed new nut into deep socket , started by hand until sung ,then attached small short 1/4 ratchet to socket and took two (2) turns . Reattached wires with long pliers, Tested on short cycle and nooooo,leaks !!!!!!!! SAVED HUNDREDS OF $$$$$$$. Replaced lower cover .ITS NOT ROCKET SCIENCES. GET AFTER IT !!!!! Bill.

Never worked on a dishwasher before but quickly learned that on this particular one, it's only this thin little brass nut that tightens down the element from the underside of the washer. If not tight enough, water drips right down onto the electrical connections. In this case water began to drip and the heat from the electrical current began melting a clear rubber shield thing. Luckily I was home during the cycle and figured out the problem. Great website that seems to have all necessary parts for my washer. Quick shipment!

After I received the Motor Shaft Kit I removed the spray arm tower and removed all screws, the center screw would not come out of the impeller, was stripped. Used a hammer and chisel to split the center of impeller and was able to remove. Also had to split the bottom impeller because it would not come out. All the parts that came in kit fit perfectly. Thank you Very much.