GDB755RJB1 Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

Stem and spray arm tabs worn to the point where every time the washer was used the spray arm would pop off and end up on the bottom of the machine, a screwdriver and ten minutes time saved a ton of money and updated the machine.

Bottom dish rack is a direct replacement with no assembly required. Top rack has to have the old center cone removed and placed onto the new upper rack. The top rack comes with rail wheels in place. In order to reinstall the new upper rack you must take the rail stops off to allow the old top rack and wheels to be removed and then place the new top rack with wheels into the rail grooves. Make sure they are rolling correctly and then replace the rail blocks. Happy dishwashing!

Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Turn off electrical power to dishwasher. Remove lower front cover to expose underneath the unit. Locate the valve toward the left, front underneath the washer. unplug the wire harness from the valve. lay a towel under the valve to catch water that WILL come out. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze and slide back the hose clamp holding the hose to the water bottle. Remove the 2 screws that mount the valve bracket to the frame. There is plenty of slack in the braided water feed hose to pull the valve out from under the washer. Remove the hose from the fitting and then remove the fitting from the valve. Re-wrap the threads of the fitting with teflon tape and install into new valve. Attach and tighten the braided supply hose to the fitting. Install the valve in reverse order of removal. It takes about 10 minutes to do.

all I did was replace the arm , however I took advice from another PartSelect customer - I had to screw the arm into the floor of the dishwasher until it clicked!! Now, it will not tip over.

first shut-off power and water! removed bottom cover panels and top two mount screws from DW. slide DW out about one foot for easier access. disconnect inlet valve wiring harness. then remove the screws that hold the unit to the dishwasher. then disconnect water outlet hose (mine was a black accordian type tubing) use your pliers to move back the clamp. it will take a little bit of twist and pull to get that hose off. next use your adjustable wrench and pliers to unscrew inlet copper tubing from the valve unit. the old valve should now be free from the DW. replace in reverse , remember to use silicon tape. I left the bottom panels off for a couple more days to check for leaks. my wife told me that the first washing after the fix did not really clean the dishes as well , but after that everything was back to normal. so perhaps run the machine empty once?

easy peasy! received part quickly. 2 days. pop right in. thanks to whoever said to turn arm till it clicks.

Removed old gasket,placed new one on pressing into place.Very quick and easy.Saw the youtube on how to do it.Unfortunately this was not the problem.now have a new dishwasher same brand.

Spotted the source of the leak at the first heating element under the dishwasher. Removed the brass mounting nut and it was cracked. Replaced with new part from PartSelect.com and the leak was fixed. Apparently the heating element gets so hot it tends to crack the mounting nuts, which results in a leak. Delivery time for part said 3-5 days - mine arrived one day after ordered!

Remove the old part and replaced with new. Done

Just like the instruction video. I pulled the old gaskets out, cleaned the gunk that had accumulated and put the new gaskets in. The tub gasket does not require any cutting or stretching. Just make sure it makes the turn at the bottom of the tub so the door seals properly. The door gasket was very simple to replace.

Replaced arm - SO easy!

When I looked at my prospective home for the first time, the current "month to month" renters made sure to tell me EVERYTHING that was wrong with the place. One of those things was that the dishwasher was broken and beyond repair. Upon moving in, my brother in law asked "Did you try turning it on??" We did, it worked and drained...so why was it "broken?" The lower spray arm kept popping out mid cycle, then would get melted on the heating units at the bottom of the unit during the drying process. I easily found and purchased the part from this site. Once it got here, I literally just had to pop it on, no tools, no mess. Fixed!

Cheked supply water line, water there but not getting into machine.Removed screws that hold machine to counter top, lowered adjustable legs and disconnected water line. I turned off power for safety.Pulled machine out about 8 inches to access water valve from the side. disconnect power supply wires, and water discharge hose, remove two screws on valve bracket. Install new valve and reconnect.

Very simple to repair, cleaned the melted plastic from the heater, received the part within 2 days and pushed the new arm into the 2 bracket clamps and it was done. Since this was an older unit they told me the replaceable part number and the price was very reasonable..less then $30 for the whole job!