GDB635RHR0 Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered the parts, put into place and that was it...very easy...had to undo the upper rack spinner wash blade but was easy to remove and put back onto the new rack...

My daughter held the flashlight steady as a rock as I hooked not one, but two new hinges in place. Throughout the whole ordeal neither of us complained or lost our resolve. We conquered!

Easy as pie. Just turned off water and electricity. Disconnected hoses and wires and replaced with the new valve.

1-2-3 snapped off the old and snapped on the new! New part was just as ordered and just like original! My dishwasher is like new again! Thanks PartSelect for your great price and prompt shipment!

The Inlet valve was leaking. I removed the old valve in less than 30 min.Note: need bright flashlight! It could have been quicker but I had to lie on the floor and squeeze my big hands under the opening (kick panel). Once I got the two small bolts out, I was able to manipulate the valve out from under the dishwasher, then I carefully removed the two lines. I received the part in 5 days and installed it in 45 minutes. It could have been a faster installation, however I was not about to pull out the whole dishwasher. Again, I was able to manipulate the new valve back in & tighten then test everything.(note: need a bright flashlight to see underneath) I immediately ran a load of dishes and Presto! No leaks and runs like a Swiss watch!

I removed the kick panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. Then using a flashlight and a cross point screwdriver, I removed the thermostat from about the middle left. It requires a short screwdriver, but not quite as short as a stubby. I unplugged the wires, noting that one of them was a little burnt looking. The burnt looking connector was still okay. I then installed the new one, with the green dot on the thermostat having the slightly burnt looking connector. Then I ran a load of dishes and the dishwasher worked as it was supposed to. It has worked okay twice since then.

I just did the repair just like the video suggests to fix it. I disconnected the power cord, shut off and took apart the water inlet line, and drain line. Unscrewed the top of the washer from the cabinet and pulled out the dishwasher. Tilted the washer to better get to the bottom and took off the connecting wires (red and white.) Unscrewed the brass nuts holding the heating element and removed the element from the machine. Took out the bottom sprayer arm. Replaced the element, replaced the brass nuts and connected the wires back up. Put the sprayer arm back in. Pushed the machine back into place and re-secured the top to the cabinet. Hooked all water, drain, and power lines back up and all was good again.

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Popped off the old spray arm ... INTENTIONALLY, and put new one in. Had to lift off small strainer to allow old arm to release! Be sure to turn arm until it clicks into place, return small strainer/clip, and you are in business!
Most trouble I had was getting this old bo
y up off the floor afterward.
Dished so much cleaner now!

Internet search found high limit switch as primary failure, removed dishwasher existing part looked new, no signs of wear as was expected. Second failure was the heating element, I ordered the part; At the same time I found a random youtube video, that had me check the continuity of the heater and tested good. Then the video indicated the heater relay may have one leg that has lost the solder and stops the heater element from working. I took the control panel a part and the heater relay had the same failure, one leg had a missing solder joint. Using some flux, solder and soldering iron I repaired the connection and added some addition solder to the circuit. Reassembled and the dishwasher is heating as it was before everything is working as expected!
(P.S. The heater relay failure appears to be a common problem, but the actual root cause [relay failure due to poor solder joint] is never reported back to the company, they just hear the heater element stopped working and they never fix the real issue because the customers are throwing out the dishwasher, when it could have been repaired with a simple fix. More importantly it should be something that is investigated as it may needs an engineering redesign. but can't fix what you don't know about or fail to investigate. I did purchase a new relay to replace the existing one, to be installed upon arrival).
Once again a random youtube video identifies and resolves a problem, that would have had me purchasing a new dishwasher, and maybe this is all planned engineering obsolescence.
When will get smart dishwasher that have sensors or at least codes that report the failures correctly, to make DIY repairs?

I read the instructions that others had posted and completed the repair in less than 5 minutes!

1 Removed 2 screws to remove door panel so as to access back of dispenser.
2 Unplugged 2 color-coded wires attached to dispenser
3 Removed 6 screws attaching the dispenser.

Reversed these 3 steps to install new unit.

Easy. Don't even think of calling the repairman.

It was super simple. I popped the clips that were holding the old spray arm on and then popped the new one in place.

Pulled old gasket off with small hook. Replaced new gasket by pressing in with my fingers.

Your service was great, the basket came in two parts and all I had to do was put the two together and put it in the dishwasher. I am glad we were able to get a new one. Thanks again for such quick service. Thank you very much for such great service.