GDB421RHR1 Gibson Dishwasher - Instructions

I installed the new spray arm without any tools and it worked perfectly.

Removed the bottom panel on the unit (2 screws hold it on) and pulled the dishwasher out about 4"--after turning off electricity to the unit. Removed the broken spring and the old linkage and replaced them with the new parts. Pushed the diswasher back into place, and replaced the bottom panel. Turned on the electricity and the diswasher door is "good as new." This is quite simple to do; just takes patience.

I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet space (two screws) and manually replaced both springs. I replaced one spring first to see if there would be an improvement when the second new spring was installed. There was much better tension once the second new spring was added.That is why changing both springs is recommended. This was very easy.
Changing the gasket was scary because I thought the the whole door would have to be taken apart. You know nothing ever goes back together the same. I feared that I would create an even bigger leak than what I had. Taken the door apart didnt work for me, so I just pulled the old gasket by hand and pressed in the new one. I made sure that it was seated correctly. Voila no leak.
The dishwasher is running as good as new.
I ordered these parts on Friday morning. They were on my door step Monday morning,
I highly recommend ordering from this site.

Replaced door switch as follows: (1) turned off circuit breaker powering unit; (2)removed six screws holding front control panel cover to chasis and pulled cover out slightly to expose switch; (3) labelled four connectors on wires to switch with marking pen; (4) disconnected the four wires: (5) removed two screws holding switch to chasis; (6)installed new switch with the two screws; (7) reconnected the four wires; (8)replaced cover panel and (9) turned circuit breaker back on.

Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pulled out about 1 foot. Took bottom plate off of dishwasher. Undid clamp on hose of discharge of inlet water valve and removed hose. Shut off water to water inlet valve and removed. Took wiring clip off of water inlet valve. Removed 2 screws holding water inlet valve in place. Installed new water inlet valve in reverse order.

Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.

I removed the old spray arm by pulling it off of the base then I pushed the new one on and made sure it was on properly then I pit the base back into the dishwasher and it was good as new!

All I had to do was take out old racks and replace with new ones. However the top rack did require taking off the part where the water runs through, it was easy though.

I would like to comment on how quickly and efficiently the parts arrived. I placed my order on a monday morning and am pleased to report by tuesday afternoon they arrived, much to my delight.

Make sure power is off. Remove metal toe kick with fillips screw driver. Reach under dishwasher with 1/2" open
end wrench and completly unscrew brass nuts from element ends. Then open door and pull element ends straight up. Note: As you pull element ends up (inside washer) you are also forcing the element end wire connectors to come off underneath. The electricial connectors are very hard to get off any other way.

Wendell Hensley
Madiso0nville, Tn

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. I then had to unscrew (from the bottom) the bolts that held the heater in place. After that I ran into a problem of disconnecting the wires that ran to the heater. I did not want to "force" the wires off and I was unsure how exactly to remove them. I figured out that they are really hard to pull off but there are no clips holding them on, so you won't break anything off. Once I got the wires off, I was able to screw the nuts onto the new heater and put it back into place.

Place spray arm into receptacle. Take nut and screw on being careful not to over tighten. This will strip the spray arm and the same problem will occur. Easy fix!

The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job

Turned off power to dishwasher.Used a screw driver to rermoved the outer top of door.Used star wrench to remove door latch.Repalced wire for wire on door latch.Reinstalled door latch with star wrench.Reinstalled outer top of door with screw driver.Turned power on.Tryed door lath.Operation is Ok.Ran dish washer.No leaks.Operation is OK.

First I disconnected the dishwasher, then I disconnected the drain hose. I pulled the machine from under the counter and turned it on its side, so that I could see where the drain pump was. I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the pump out and disconnected the two wires. I took a good look where each wire was attached. I also had to disconnect the pump from two small hoses. I installed the new pump, I had ordered from PartSelect, following the reverse procedure. I reconnected the dishwasher and slided back under the counter. I confess I didn't believe it would work. I was prepared for failure. The machine started, then when the cycle changed, I heard the water draining into the waist pipe under the sink. New hot water filled the machine. Would this water be drained out and at the end, after the rinsing cycle, would the dishwasher be empty and completely free of water? I waited for the end of the rinsing, then I opened the door and checked for any water left at the bottom. Suddenly a feeling of joy and pride went through me. All water had been drained out by the new pump. I had repaired my dishwasher. I didn't have to throw this handsome and well made machine into the street. My kitchen sink was no longer full of glasses and dishes. I was washing all I had accumulated during the week. My kitchen became clean and organized just like before. At this point I took an oath: when my dishwasher would break down next time, I would repair it , even if its motor, the most expensive part, had to be replaced. I was going to do it with the help of the experts at PartSelect. Thanks guys for your help and for inspiring confidence in myself. I DID IT! What a great feeling!
Now I understand the feeling a doctor must experience when he brings back to life a dying patient.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.