GLD5600NC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced keypad electronics PC boards.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Took the old ones off and put the new ones in.

My water has a lot of calcium and the spray arms clog.
Second time in 3 years

Dishwasher was not filling with water so I assumed the Water Inlet Valve was the problem. I replace the valve but still had the same problem. Studying everything I noticed another problem. The Drain Solenoid which I had replaced 9 months earlier was closed. The plunger was in the down position but must be in up position while washer is filling.
Water was pumped out as soon as it came in. I removed the Drain Solenoid and found the plunger securly stuck inside the plastic cylinder. I forcefully removed it. I knew the solenoid was probably OK because it jerked during the drain cycle. I put emery cloth around a dowel rod and sanded inside the plastic cylinder until plunger moved freely. I smoothed inside with wet or dry sandpaper. After re-installing the solenoid the dishwasher works great. My only explanation is the solenoid has a design flaw and that heat from the solinoid must expand the plastic inward over time.

It was an install. My problem is that the drain tube is not standard to other dishwashers,so I could not get it at either of the local home improvement centers. The good news is that it is larger than the standard, and offers better discharge.

For those of you that have this problem, please note that there may be three arms to your dishwasher, not just two. I also recommend calling this company to make sure you get the right part...there was no picture for the parts I needed.

I took the bottom plate off by removing 1 screw on each side. I then pulled the water inlet valve out, disconnected the 2 wires. Because mine was the original inlet valve and GE changed the new one I had to remove the new inlet valve from the face plated and use the old face plate. I then reveresed everything and put it back together and Wah Lah the dishwaher was fixed!!

Simple as 1,2,3.Parts on time and priced right.

problem solved..thanks

I replaced the entire Water Inlet Valve. The part was perfect and fixed the problem. The only difficulty was the brass elbow connection that connects to the incoming water line had plumbing putting that connected it to the old Water Inlet Valve. I had to get a couple of large adjustable wrenches to take it off. I needed it as I didn't want to buy another one. I was thankful that I had some extra plumbing putty on hand to seal the threads when I put the brass elbow back on the new Water Inlet Valve. That saved me a trip to the hardware story. All in all, I'm very pleased that I was able to fix this myself. I'm not exactly a Mr. Fixit, so this was a good experience.

First, remove the bottom front covers (two parts four screws). Second, remove the two screws at the top that secure the dishwasher to the counter. Third, gently pull away the dishwasher from underneath the counter just far enough to see and be able to remove the door spring(s) - one on each side. Fourth, remove the existing hinge arm link(s) if not already broken off, replace with the new one(s). Note that the door hinge goes on the door (front) side of the spring and the other side fits into a groove on the door arm - the other end of the spring attaches to one of the 3 available holes on the frame at the bottom. It would be a good idea to replace the hinge arm links on both sides even if only one is broken. Make sure that the door has the right tension (each spring can be hooked in 1 of 3 holes to adjust the tension). Then gently push the dishwasher back under the counter. Finally, replace the screws under the counter and replace the covers on the bottom front. All of this should take no more than 15-20 minutes. This was an easy job!

Self

so easy! Ordered the rollers and clips ... popped them on and done!!!

i needed new rollers and inserts to keep wheels on now its like new when i pull out bottom basket